clean a tank

[Bootlegger]

  I have access to the tank (4 ounce) and I need to get it clean, or at least be sure it is clean, what are y'alls  suggestions?
   Thanks

[Dave_Trible]

Gil I'd just flush it with fresh fuel.  No point in contaminating the tank with anything.  I've heard some store the airplane with a full tank.  That may be good to keep the inside coated with oil and keep moisture out to prevent corrosion.  I don't but haven't had problems.  I seldom fly an airplane more than a couple season anyway and use filters in the plane and on the fueling syringe.  When in doubt I'll just build a new tank.

Dave

[Motorman]

If the tank is corroded and cruddy inside there's not much you can do to completely clean it. Maybe if you could set up a pump around system with a hot crock pot of antifreeze and a filter it would work. Castrol super clean melts dry castor oil but if the tin is corroded you'll always get rust flakes.

I would just hose it out with a can of carb cleaner and check the filter every few flights to see how bad it is. The dubro filters are great for this. They have an o-ring seal so you can service them all you want right on the field.

Guys, build your planes with removable tanks.

MM

[Jim Carter]

.... I seldom fly an airplane more than a couple season anyway ....

I seldom have a plane last more than a couple of seasons ..... 

[Dan McEntee]

  I have access to the tank (4 ounce) and I need to get it clean, or at least be sure it is clean, what are y'alls  suggestions?
   Thanks

     The biggest offender to metal tanks that I have found, is rust and corrosion. Castor sludge can build up, but will be dissolved in a few tankful or two of running, especially if you let the tank stand a day or two filled with fuel. But rust can be a pain. You can take the end off and hand clean it, or try soaking in plain old white vinegar. White vinegar will dissolve rust and leave very little acid residue afterwards. I clean out steel vintage motorcycle tanks this way with great success. Fill the tank and let it sit with everything capped off. Pick it up and shake it every once in a while. Shake it one last time and force the solution out with a syringe and observe the color. It should be brownish/red. Flush again with some clean white vinegar, fill and cap and let stand again. If the solution comes out lts more clear, just flush with more clean stuff one more time, then flush with fuel and let stand. This can be done even if teh tank is built into an old model and should still work.  As stated make sure you have a fuel filter in line and frequent checking will tell you how things are inside, especially if the engine is performing normally with no problems.
   Good luck and have fun and
    HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!
   Dan McEntee

[kenneth cook]

             While you suggest you have access, can you get the tank out? In addition, is it leak free? Using a 5 oz. syringe like your trying to pop it underwater is the only sure fire way to tell and even the smallest pin hole can plague the system. What kind of tank is it? The old Perfect tanks used brass tubing which typically splits internally sight unseen until you remove a end cap. The Perfect company never soldered the pickup tubes inside the tanks. Anytime I needed to flush out a tank I would just use fuel and let it sit with it's vents plugged for a few days. Veco tanks especially with the useless baffle in the center of the tank has from what I've observed to be the fate of the those tanks. The solder was never properly cleaned and the flux eats the plating away causing rust and corrosion issues. I'm assuming the baffle had it's holes drilled in the plated stock which is why the oxidation forms so rapidly around that area. In my opinion, the best way to flush the tank is to remove it from the plane and properly take it apart and make any corrections needed. I've seen a lot of flying time lost due to problematic tanks.

[Tim Wescott]

What everyone else has said plus, if it's a metal tank and "access" means that it's out of the plane, consider popping the end off and giving it a look-see.  Then you'll know absolutely what shape it's in, and you can decide whether to reassemble it and put it back into service or build another one.

[Howard Rush]

... and you can decide whether to reassemble it and put it back into service or build another one.

or...

[Dane Martin]

or...

Turn it into a bladder compartment. Still a fuel tank so to speak.

[Steve Helmick]

Turn it into a bladder compartment. Still a fuel tank so to speak.

Yeah! That would be my choice, too.  Steve

[RknRusty]

Yeah! That would be my choice, too.   Steve

Yeah and then I think you'll have to run the engine fast and re-test smaller diameter props to get your lap speed back down. You can't run a bladder rich and needle for a 4-2 break. But once you get it right, it'll be a badass haulin' ass steady running engine. I wonder if an ABC engine might be the best choice for a bladder. Chuck the metal, just hang it in a bag or a protective plastic fluorescent lamp tube sleeve. Or epoxied cardboard. Or... something. Possibly inside the wing.

I have had good success soaking the metal ones capped off and full of brake parts cleaner overnight. Shake, rinse, repeat.
Ken posted above with the better choice if you're willing to open up the tank and work on it.
Rusty

[Frank Imbriaco]

Doug Benedetti taught me a trick some years back to PREVENT internal tank rust. At the end of each flying season, squirt in an ounce or so of ATF( trans fluid).  Cap off, slosh around to coat all internal surfaces and put away until Spring- or whenever you fly the model again. Then, suction out THROUGHLY  and don't worry about your engine run because of a little ATF left inside. The fuel will dilute it and all will be fine.
Having a removable tank obviously helps, but permanent installs aren't an issue.

[RknRusty]

Doug Benedetti taught me a trick some years back to PREVENT internal tank rust. At the end of each flying season, squirt in an ounce or so of ATF( trans fluid).  Cap off, slosh around to coat all internal surfaces and put away until Spring- or whenever you fly the model again. Then, suction out THROUGHLY  and don't worry about your engine run because of a little ATF left inside. The fuel will dilute it and all will be fine.
Having a removable tank obviously helps, but permanent installs aren't an issue.

Good idea. I've done the same with air tool oil, which is also clean clear stuff. I've never looked it up, but I believe 10 weight Singer sewing machine oil might be the same thing, and I've used it for ARO. From Walmart in 4 oz. containers.
Rusty

[Bootlegger]

  Guy's thanks for all the advice, I ran the tank earlier today and had a filter in line, no crud so I put it back into service. Just to say Thanks again, and Happy Thanksgiving to all y'all...

[Motorman]

I would mix the after tank oil with something to make it more liquidy. Maybe 1/2 gas 1/2 ATF but use neoprene fuel line.


MM