Brodak Super-Clown kit control system

[Kim Mortimore]

A friend of mine who is "Hangar shy" is building a Brodak Super-Clown kit.  He says:

"I found the elevator moves much less than the flaps. Seems to be designed that way in that the lever arm on the flaps is shorter than the elevator. Verified on the plan."

My understanding is that a LITTLE more flap is sometimes used to compensate for overweight, but a lot more flap will make the plane bounce up and down with not enough turn.  I think my friend should change the control setup before flying it.  What do you think?

Thanks,
Kim Mortimore 

[Alan Hahn]

I don't have the kit, but I think the holes for the flap to elevator pushrod are the same length on my Electric ARF. I would be a little surprised if more flap was suppose to be correct. I'll take a closer peek when I get home.

[EddyR]

On a thin wing short coupled plane like  the Clown you want less flap than elevator. He is using the wrong flap hole for the elevator pushrod. 2/3 to 1 has been the normal set up on that  plane since the 50's. He can always use a plastic horn on the elevator to get the correct set up. If the horns that came with the plane are incorrect don't use them.
Ed

[John Paris]

Kim,
On the plans it shows the flap pushrod going to the top hole in the flap horn and the elevator pushrod going in the second farthest hole from the flap (just below the flap pushrod).  The elevator pushrod then goes into the 3rd hole from the elevator on the elevator horn.  This should give roughly a 1:1 ratio.  I have flown my Super Clown with the pushrod in the second hole from the elevator which would result in more elevator than flap with good results for a number of years.  All of the ratios and descriptions of parts assume that the kits still come with what they did when I built mine a number of years ago.
John

[Steve Helmick]

I recall a thread where Ted Fancher recommended fixed flaps on the Super Clown, based on its light wingloading and short tail moment/small horizontal tail. I have a Super Clown ARF to assemble, and would do that, no question.  I'm not sure if I'd glue the flaps on, or if I'd hinge them and make them into full span trim tabs. If the latter, I'd have the roots of the flaps fixed with the standard flap horn and "pushrod", and then have an "elevator horn" outboard, with another short "pushrod", to twist the flap slightly. Should be pretty effective, if not downright twitchy...  Steve

[Richard Fleming]

If you like the way the Ringmaster flies, glue the flaps on. I have built two with fixed flaps and with the coreect CG , you will be pleased with it. 

[Just One-eye]

I've owned about twice as many as I have actually built (and I've owned about six).  Somehow, it's been the most common one I've run across being sold already built.  My own always used fixed flaps, and of the three that I acquired already completed, two had coupled flaps.  Generally, they had better aerobatic characteristics with fixed flaps. 

[Mike Lauerman]

LOVE PEOPLE AND USE THINGS -   

NOT LOVE THINGS AND USE PEOPLE.

  Love that framework, Richard! I have one to do (for a Fun Flier & practice) and I am going to 'fix' flaps. Thanks for the great pic. Very inspiring.