Brodak Original Nobler

[Phillip Kenney]

Back in 1968-1969 while in the Air Force I built a Top Fite Nobler. It was my first big airplane  and I can remember how pretty it was done in the bright yellow I finished it in. I decided for nostalgia to build another one this winter. I bought the Brodak kit and if it is a copy of the original Nobler my memory must really be failing as I don't remember having to hollow out and shape all the blocks supplied in the Brodak kit when I built the original. Don't get me wrong, this is a winter building project and if anyone has built one of these kits you will know it is a building project. And I LOVE it. It is really fun to spend an evening carving the top block into the shape of a turtle deck and fitting all the pieces to make the cowl.
Outside of taking a lot of time to build the kit is excellent, great wood and nice clear plans.

[Robert Zambelli]

Hi, Phillip
Two different airplanes.
The Top Flite version was from 1957, the original is from around 1959.
The Brodak version is an excellent flyer.
Power it with a Fox 35 if you want to be authentic.

Bob Z.

[Dan McEntee]

   The Brodak kit is more true to George's original airplane as he flew it in the early 50's. Top Flite bought the rights to it and they and George refined the design and made some changes in order to get the kit into a standard box and to also ease construction some, such as the molded turtle deck and such instead of carving blocks. The big blocks take up a lot of room in a kit box, for only most of it to be cut away!. The preformed sheeting was lighter and also cost less in the long run because it used less balsa. The biggest difference between the designs is the amount of wing asymmetry, with the inboard wing bit longer on the Brodak kit than the Top Flite kit. Lots of opinions on which is best. There were a couple of other Noblers before this one that Brodak kits, and the Top Flite version is referred to as the "green box Nobler" by many due to the green labeling. There was also a follow up version called the Gieseke Nobler with some changes and mods that Bob Gieseke made to the green box kit and with which he won several NATS with. Build yours as the instructions say and you will have fine flying airplane.
     Good luck and have fun,
   Dan McEntee

[Robert Zambelli]

I bought mine when the kit first came out- mid/late 90s as I recall.
Initially flew terribly.
Very light - around 33 ounces.
George and I were good friends at the time and when I told him about the performance, he said to reduce the flap travel to about 75% of the elevator travel.
Also, he said it was too light - get the weight to around 40 to 44 ounces, where it will fly best.
I followed his advice and it became the best flying kit I've ever built.
I tried around six different engines and the Fox 35 was definitely the best.

Bob Z.

[Phillip Kenney]

My available options for power were a Fox 35 or an Enya 35. If my memory serves me correctly, I had an Enya 35 in the original. At the time for some reason the base hobby shop was big on selling Enya engines so that is what I used. I drilled this one for the Enya thinking it was more true to what I had and probably has more power.

[Robert Zambelli]

My first (Green box) Nobler was powered with an Enya 35, model 5224, built in 1966.
It did very well.
The Brodak Nobler was built mid/late 90s.
In the Enya, I used the#2  venturi and low compression head with one head shim.
Worked nicely.

Bob Z.

[Dan McEntee]

My available options for power were a Fox 35 or an Enya 35. If my memory serves me correctly, I had an Enya 35 in the original. At the time for some reason the base hobby shop was big on selling Enya engines so that is what I used. I drilled this one for the Enya thinking it was more true to what I had and probably has more power.

   I am not anti-Fox .35, but given the option between the two, I would go with the Enya for nostalgic reasons (it's the engine you used in the first one) and that it puts out a more power than the Fox. Another plus is that you have it already broken in and won't have to deal with that drama when it's finished. Enyas have a good/bad reputaion. Good from the guys that know that they need a lot of breaking in, and bad from the guys who are short on patience and try to do too much with them too soon or don't prop them correctly. Bob's set up suggestion sounds familiar from what I have read other guys doing with them and exactly why they gave you the extra head and venturi when it was new. They have to be a good engine or they wouldn't still be making them, would they!!???
  Good luck and have fun,
  Dan McEntee

[katana]

As a returnee hobbiest / flyer after 40 odd years the kits available are both fewer and more complete than I remember and so i'm attempting a Brodak Nobler. Its definitely a 'builders' kit and i'm adapting it to how I like - its profile is too slablike for my taste and the kit build sequence has gone out the window - i'm making it up as I go along LOL!
Good to hear that the Enya 35 is a good choice....... as that's what its getting - an s/hand RC version that i've machined a new venturi for, and contrary to popular opinion, i'm not building super light - it is, what it is. Covering is yet to be decided but i've got something 'left field' to try - Tyvek polyprop. tissue - 41g/m sq - not the lightest, but pretty tough which for me is a total long term bonus as my flying may be well rusty!!! Hated hollowing out those logs though - got well thin in places so had to add back wood - PAIN!
Only problem is flying sites in the UK - nowhere local for me, not like 40 years ago - used to pitch up on our bikes in local park or school and just fly. But may have access to a site on an industrial estate so away from public and no chance of noise nuisance - just have to do some leg work for next spring potential 1st flight.

[Brett Buck]

GCovering is yet to be decided but i've got something 'left field' to try - Tyvek polyprop. tissue - 41g/m sq - not the lightest, but pretty tough which for me is a total long term bonus as my flying may be well rusty!!!

      I am not sure how well that is going to adhere, nothing really sticks to it. Definitely do a test peice including an attempted finish, and see if it is going to stick to the wood, and if paint will stick to it.

     If it was me, I would use a Fox 35, because that's what all of mine had, and it will definitely fly the airplane.It will work fine in the inverted mount, although you won't get full performance of a modern engine (neither will the Enya), it's adequate for up to a mid-40 ounce airplane in reasonable conditions - I know, I probably have ~3000 flights with that combination  - a very long time ago.but if you know for sure the Enya will work, that's as good a choice as any vintage engine.

    Brett

[john e. holliday]

My first Nobler was first Top Flite version with the molding you had to do your self was McCoy 35 Redhead, the $10.00 engine.   Second Nobler was powered with Fox .35 Stunt  The third Nobler which is still hanging in the shop was also Fox .35 powered.  Then I built the Geiseke version with Fox .35 power.   The last one was the Original Nobler by Brodak with all the blocks and Fox .35.  It was left in Oklahoma after the inboard wing was destroyed from the plane coming across the circle.  Bell crank didn't pull out and my wrist sore for several weeks.  All of them were in mid 40 ounce range and needed a decent pilot.   I just recently acquired another green box Nobler that may get built and may not.