bf 109 phase two

[Mark Scarborough]

Just wanted to drop a note to all my flyin buddies and let them know, Status of the much touted,(by me anyway lol) bf 109 project, this weekend I got the wing joined, yes I rememberd to install the bellcrank first! installed it in the fuse and got the tail mounted, its all square plumb and ready to move on. next step to build up the lift struts for the horizantal tail, build flaps, bend landing gear. then its on to finish! at this point I am a touch over what I hoped for but I think I will still come in about 45 to 47oz, as she sits now its about 23 oz with rudder and elevators.
I do have a quetion though, I have been contemplating using CF matt/veil, whats the best source and what weight should I look for? The whole beast is sheeted, no open bays.
I figure I have one month to finish it up so I have some flying time before Portland though I always have the Qship as well. see ya around--- and --- round--- and --- round--- and --- round

PS finally got some flying weather, it was low 60s today, fairly steady breeze this morning at about 15 mph, gusty, tonight steady 5 mph coming from the sun,, PERFECT WEATHER got in four flights before I had to pack in for work. sigh, sure felt good to pull a handle again!

best to you all

[john e. holliday]

Get your carbon fiber matte from RSM Distibution otherwise known as Eric Rule.

              DOC Holliday

[Bill Little]

Hi Mark,

I would use the 2 tenths ounce CF veil.  It is plenty!

Bill <><

[Mark Scarborough]

Thanks gents, that is the next question I had! I assume from what I have read you just lay in on like you do with silkspan? I seeme to remember reading that the overlap goes away pretty easy, is that a correct assumption as well? Appreciate the help.

[Randy Powell]

Mark,

Looks good, man. I get CF veil from Aerospace Composites, but RSM is fine. The overlap usually goes away pretty easily after a few coats of dope. Remember, you can't put it over open bays, unless you put something under it like silkspan. But it is a nice touch.

[Mark Scarborough]

Thanks Randy,
I ordered some its on the way, why is it whenevver you start out to order something, you think of tons of other stuff too, heck you start off with a 30 dollar order and next thing you know its like aproaching 100? sigh,, theres no open structure on this beast, shes all skinned. (psst, I have a new greatest plan ever for getting rid of dope,, hehe,, )

[Randy Powell]

Mark,

Well, with no open bays, I can think of several possibilities for finish. Everything from the Al Rabe method (all epoxy from the wood to the clear) to CF and urethane clear, K-36, auto color and Poly-U topcoat.

[Mark Scarborough]

HEY! have you done this before, sheesh, actually thinking of trying Ure clear and CF. the fuse and tail is epoxy already,, not sure I am real happy that way so I am going to experiment with the clear seeing as how I have it to play with. Have you tried that before? see any problems with it?

[Randy Powell]

Just don't lay it on too thick. Pretty much what you lay down is what stays. It doesn't gas off like lacquer (which is why the EPA is so in love with it). I did a profile a couple of years ago (like, I've experimented with a lot of stuff) that was sheeted and all urethane from the wood up. I used silkspan and urethane clear on the bare wood, K-36 primer and urethane auto colors and catalyzed poly for the topcoat. worked fine but was a bit heavy, I thought. The elliptical plane on my shelf used silkspan and Polycrylic over open bays. Had to use a hair dryer to get it to shrink and I wasn't all that happy about the tauntness of the silkspan. Then K-36 primer and auto paint and catalyzed poly for topcoat. Again, OK, but not perfect.

For now, I'll stick with lacquer until I feel adventurous again.