ok fine,,
let the carnage begin,,
I apologize in advance for not using planking,, or polyester resin,,
THe prime reason I am doing this, if I had not , it would have hung on the wall for a long time waiting,,
there is just to many practical reasons for me to use Epower,, most of which revolve around being able to actually practice,,
so, without further ado,,
let the carnage begin,,,,,
1 using dremel router bit, cut back the motor mount rails in the engine bay. ( Pat my front end is built just like you do yours,, )
2 after sanding everything as smooth as I could, I epoxied some carbon tow into the nose. The main reason I did this was because my doublers and the mount rails stop short of where the mount will eventually live, so the carbon ties all that together,, Note I inflated a balloon in the nose, and taped ablock into the balloon to force it into the corners. A trick I devised building my quickie fuel tank bays,, makes all the corners smooth and keeps things together,, think redneck vacuum baggin'
also, the spinner in this pict,, I may end up trying to find a spinner like this,, held on to backplate by two screws, and then cut the point off to replicate the 109 spinner which on some versions had a cannon through it. it would also let cooling air into the motor,,
3 showing carbon after balloon removed
4 showing fiewall/mount, 1/8 ply which I laminated with 3 layers of 2 oz cloth on each side to toughen it up
5 shows mount installed, I used the spinner backplate to set the depth and alignment of the motor mount in the fuse
6 the mount needs to be stable,, very very stable,, so this filler goes between the spinner ring and the mount to tie it all together, it has to clear the locater pins on the cowling,and also clear the mount screws . that accounts for the strange shape.
7 shows filler installed. Now I need to do some bracing behind the mount..
I am also seriously considering on THIS model using a rear bearing plate, since I cannot tie the mount plate in as effectivly as I would were this a dedicated electric model from the outset, I think it will help keep things together, Now to fine a flanged bearing that will fit the screw on prop adapter ( which fits the back end of the motor)