ARF Vector Leadouts

[Noel Corney]

Went flying my arf vector today ,This model has about 30 flights , half puled out of the inverted turn Of the reverse wingover straight into the ground, both leadouts departed company with the belcrank. When i cut the model open i found that both the crimps had failed.I thought we were over this as far as the vector was concerned, be warned. Noel.

[Roger Vizioli]

Noel,
Out of curiousity, do you know if your ARF Vector is an earlier version or a current one?
Thanks,
Roger V.

[Alan Hahn]

I assume that one (the down lead) failed first, then when all the force went to the other, it failed too. I'll have to check mine. I think it is pretty easy to do (before the wing goes on that is. Just need to drill a 1/4" hole on the bottom of the wing to unscrew the bell crank --I think.

Out of curiosity, (and I think I know the answer), had you tried a pull test in recent flights? I know I only do when I'm at a contest, and not when practice flying (contrary to the AMA safety code!). Also realize that you are not in USA.

Could you say more? I'm guessing that the end wire pulled out of the crimp.

[Noel Corney]

Hi Guys ,Yes the model was pull tested the week before ,I think this contributed to the problem as the crimps are alloy @  looked as tho they had just exploded from the remains i could find. I just would not trust any crimps i would change them for sure. Bought the model from Sams probably a year ago before we were shut down from getting arfs  to Aus. Even tho i normally fly tuned pipe model i think the Vector is a great plane.Wish i could get another one I may have to get a kit. Thanks to Randy for a great design @ Brodaks For picking it up .Noel.

[EddyR]

For you guys who have not tried it yet you can't unbolt the Vector  bellcrank as it sits between two plywood plates with nuts on both sides and the plates are located in the middle of the wing not the top and bottom as we would do if we were building a kit.
 I did change the leadout in mine but it is quite a job to do without cutting the planking. It is easy to change the rear leadout but when I went to turn the bellcrank 180 degrees it hit a vertical brace so I removed the brace and turned thecrank and changed the front leadout. A ball link will not clear the plywood so that created another problem I had to work around. I would recommend a kit as it is a little different and better. Randy's plans build quite a lot different than the ARF. I don't know if the kit is like the plans I have or like the ARF. The plans I have doesn't have equal wings and the flaps and elevator are wider. I built a Tempest 40 from a Vector ARF and it took longer than if I had built it from a Vector kit'
Ed

[Bob Reeves]

This wasn't a Vector but would work great on the Vector ARF/ARC

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=9106.0

[NED-088]

One of my club buddies had pulled out a lead out on a Primary Force.
Only this time it happened during the pull test so the model is still in one piece....

[Lyle Spiegel]

I recently purchased new GN component kit- lo and behold the leadouts on wing tip end are crimped- can't see the bellcrank connection unless I cut an inspection hole- but my guess is I'll also find crimps-
 I'm reluctant to risk this plane (or any other) on crimped connections having questionable reliability- has anyone looked in to how difficult it is to replace the GN crimps?

[Alan Hahn]

At the risk of sounding heretical, there is nothing intrinsically wrong about crimped leadouts. For example, one of the fliers at the NATs lost his plane when his wrapped leadout failed (see the posts on SSW by Brett Buck).

However there is always a chance that the crimp was not done correctly. I personally have never had a problem with my owncrimped leadouts, or any ARF crimped leadouts, not that I won't but there are always odds in any process that you may have problems.

Another comment is that most of the ARF crimped leadouts that I have seen don't follow the guidance that is shown in the rulebook for crimped leadouts, and maybe this is part of the problem.

[Noel Corney]

As posted earlier the crimps on mine disintergrated, the leadouts were intact ,no breaks , if it was any other product we would be banging on the manufacturers door claiming defective product. Noel

[Bob Reeves]

As posted earlier the crimps on mine disintergrated, the leadouts were intact ,no breaks , if it was any other product we would be banging on the manufacturers door claiming defective product. Noel

Cept all ARF manufactures have the same issues but some are actually taking note and trying to fix the problems. Brodak just announced a covering upgrade that will solve the loose covering issues. It will cost a bit more but thats just the way it is.

Most have learned the first item you replace in the early ARF/ARC's is the leadouts. From the first Top Flight Noblers this has been discussed on the forms extensively. Brodak and UHP both have used Tom Morris controls in some models, the industry is listening just takes time to make it happen.

[Alan Hahn]

As posted earlier the crimps on mine disintergrated, the leadouts were intact ,no breaks , if it was any other product we would be banging on the manufacturers door claiming defective product. Noel

Noel,
I don't doubt you, but what exactly do you mean by "disintegrated"? Did the wire just pull through? All I can see on my Vector ARF are the external crimps--I assume the internal ones next to the bellcrank are done the same way. The metal crimp sure doesn't look like it is going to "explode"  , but I could believe they may be under- (or over-) crimped. Just trying to understand the failure mode.

[Richard Grogan]

Has anyone done a "How To" on replacing the LOs on one of these specifically- after it has already been assembled? 

Or just hit the bottom cap with debonder and pry it off?

[Noel Corney]

Not trying to get too carried away here and as i said at the top of the post i applaud the manufactures for putting out these models ,  But not everyone dose not have the expertise to replace components but then again why should we have to as we have bought a tool to do a job with as little preparation as possible. O/K one of the crimps had been opened up completely, probably the second one to go , the other I only found three pieces  not enough to make a full crimp.