Skylark build

[Dave Nyce]

Started building a Sterling kit: Ed Southwick's Skylark. Even though much of the wood is quite hard, I decided to build it using the wood contained in the kit. Most of the work so far has been in cutting out the parts, since the factory cutting was very poor. It's a good thing that I have a wide assortment of cutting tools, scalpels, and razor saws. The instructions are somewhat difficult to follow, and so far I don't see how the wingtips are assembled. If anyone has any pointers, they would be appreciated.

[Dave Lajb]

I am in the process of finishing one right now.  I agree the wood is very difficult to work with and very brittle. The instructions are not the greatest and you should read them 4 or 5 times before starting.  Make sure you know what motor you are using and set the crutch accordingly.  I didn't like the way the cowl was so I made my own adding air dams and outlets Watch out for warps.  That almost drove me nuts.  The tips will make sense once the wing is finished.  There is a block that will be molded for each LE.  There is a flat piece that fits into the slots of the last rib forming the base.  Then there are ribs added.  Don't add the tops of the ribs until the edge pcs of the tips are installed.  Then the tops are angled to fit.  The edge of the tip is curved/bent at the ends to fit.  I didn't not install adjustable lead outs but wish I did now.  Making the control horns was new for me.  I followed the instructions and added some JB weld for security.  I also used RC cars tie rod ends and a jamb nut for the controls.  Cut the bottom pcs before adding all the landing gear...

Also, there is another set of plans and artlices that you should read on The Outerzone.  Its very helpful.

On the wing, its done in two pcs then joined together.  Make sure when you cut your LE coverings that they go back even with the back edge of spar.  Otherwise it doesn't look good. 

Take your time and make sure each pcs fits perfect or your finish will not look good.  Let me know if you have any questions.     

[john e. holliday]

If you know how build the wing in one piece using a jig.

[Dan McEntee]

  One thing to keep in mind about the Skylark and comparing plans and such, is that the Sterling kit was reduced in size to get it in the standard kit box. I have not really studied other plans closely but I'm sure there are some differences. I think there are three versions, Ed's original design and it's the kit that Henn Smith put out for a short while. Then there is the M.A.N. magazine plan, and then the Sterlig kit. Just be careful when comparing them for sizes and shapes. All are classic legal. I got to talk with Ed at an early VSC and he was still holding a grudge against Sterling and possibly M.A.N. for making changes to his design. They all seem to fly well, but Ed's original was a bigger airplane
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

[Paul Walker]

I built one from the Sterling kit a numberof years ago
 I painted it like the plane on the kit box. I used it at a VSC that Ed Southwick attended. He was very pleased to see it fly. He said it looked just like the plane he used at the World Champs he flew in. I put a McCoy 40 in it. It weighed around 44 ounces.

I used most of the kit wood ( because that is what I would have done as a kid) EXCEPT for the fuselage sides. They weighed 2 ounces each!  And they are not that big..wow they were heavy.

Hope you have as much fun as I had on that project!

[Dave Lajb]

  One thing to keep in mind about the Skylark and comparing plans and such, is that the Sterling kit was reduced in size to get it in the standard kit box. I have not really studied other plans closely but I'm sure there are some differences. I think there are three versions, Ed's original design and it's the kit that Henn Smith put out for a short while. Then there is the M.A.N. magazine plan, and then the Sterlig kit. Just be careful when comparing them for sizes and shapes. All are classic legal. I got to talk with Ed at an early VSC and he was still holding a grudge against Sterling and possibly M.A.N. for making changes to his design. They all seem to fly well, but Ed's original was a bigger airplane
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

The plans and article I am referring to on outerzone are Ed original plans.  These give you a much better side view then the Sterling plans.  There is an article included where he is interviewed in Dec of 1963.  To me it was very interesting and helpful knowing the history.

[Brett Buck]

I used most of the kit wood ( because that is what I would have done as a kid) EXCEPT for the fuselage sides. They weighed 2 ounces each!  And they are not that big..wow they were heavy.

    I had to do exactly the same with my Nobler, mostly kit wood except for the fuse sides - which may have been around 2 ounces each, even with the giant cutouts in the aft fuse. I would have just used it back in the good old days. Now I have parts of 4 different kits, and am cherry-picking the best parts, but almost all of it is from one of the kits. The rudder/fin is left over from the last one I partially built in 1974.

     Brett

[Dave_Trible]

I built one three or four years ago from the Sterling kit ( my third one overall).    I used most all the 'shaped' parts,  ribs,  formers shaped edges for the stab and rudder but replaced the sides and all other sheet wood-maybe a lighter top block-don't recall.   Still came out at 48 ounces but flies well with an Enya .35.    I built another one a little further back more like Ed's original by extending the wing out to 56" rather than the kit 52" by just respacing the ribs.   I think that was about the only real difference.   Seems I just replaced the sheeting on that one,  lighter finish and McCoy .40.   Great flier.

[Ken Culbertson]

Mine was rather short lived.  Built from the Kit in a base hobby shop in Korea.  All we could get for power was McCoy and Fox.  Mine, like most others here had the McCoy .40 (cheaper, and in many ways better than the Fox).  It was overweight.  From what I remember it flew quite well, especially overhead compared to other period planes.  I saw Ed fly his version in '64, much different than mine ('73).  I returned stateside in '74 and had to give it away.  I got to keep my Mustang, it had a removable wing and fit in the moving container.

Ken

[Dave Nyce]

Thanks for the replies. 

Thank you Dave Lajb for the great info!

[Brett Buck]

BTW, talking about bad kit wood, about the worst I ever had , even worse that any Ringmaster I ever saw, was the kit wood in my Goldberg Falcon 56. I have seen lighter axe handles than the shaped LE wood in that kit, and the rest of it was just as bad. Looking at the plans, I couldn't imagine how it might weigh 6 lbs like it said - but with that wood, 6 lbs would have been a miracle. As a bonus, none of the parts fit properly, like, the LE was about 1/8" deeper than the ribs and things like that. I had been a team alternate for the rocket WC, and very experienced at building CL and plastic models, but this thing was a struggle to even get fit and I eventually gave up entirely.

   Another really bad one is a Berkely kit I got, a Playboy Senior, I am not sure it's even balsa. I can only imagine some poor kid back in 1940 trying to cut out the printwood with a double-edge blade he had broken in half, the doctor's bills would have been more than the airplane. Every Berkley kit I ever saw was about the same.

    Brett

[Dave Lajb]

Thanks for the replies. 

Thank you Dave Lajb for the great info!

Of course, glad to help.  I forgot to mention, when building mine it was very difficult to find the notched out pcs where the balsa slots fits together.  The damn wood was so old, well so are my eyes.  There is both rib ends have two notches, the Inboard 1 and 2 ribs are notched for the bell crank plywood as well as the front spar.  The front spar gets a little tricky because when you join the wings the doubler ends up over the slot for the bell crank base.
Then the tip base on each side in slotted for the ribs.  I think that is all of them. Have fun...

[Dave Nyce]

Is the leading edge sheeting only on the top side?

[Dave_Trible]

Is the leading edge sheeting only on the top side?

No it's equal top and bottom.   Couldn't keep the wing straight otherwise.  I don't know how you are building this but it should be jigged in some way then the sheeting and cap strips applied to one side.   Then it should be turned over,  jigged straight again and then the sheeting and cap strips applied to the other side.   This should ensure a straight wing to this point.

Dave

[Dave Nyce]

Thanks Dave.

[Dave Lajb]

Thanks Dave.

[Dave Nyce]

Thanks!

[Dave Lajb]

Thanks!

If you need anything else let me know

[Dave Nyce]

Thanks so much Dave Lajb!  I now have the wing almost complete. Decided to add an adjustable leadout, and to add a weight box to the outside wing tip. The instructions say wingtip weight is not needed, but I'm not so sure about that.  The adjustable leadout I made is shown in the photo. Using 0.031" diameter music wire leadouts.

[Dan McEntee]

Thanks so much Dave Lajb!  I now have the wing almost complete. Decided to add an adjustable leadout, and to add a weight box to the outside wing tip. The instructions say wingtip weight is not needed, but I'm not so sure about that.  The adjustable leadout I made is shown in the photo. Using 0.031" diameter music wire leadouts.

     Install a tip weight box just the same. Some guys take the lines they will use and put them on the wing about half way out, then put weight on the outboard tip until it balances. Or you could just start with about an ounce and test fly and see how it handles and go up or down from there. I try to go in increments of 1/4 ounce. I even have a couple of airplanes that have tip weight on the INBOARD wing in order to get it to stop dropping a wing in the corners. It's best to start with something out there.
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

[Dave_Trible]

I don't have the last one I built here but I think I put a tip weight box on it.  The box itself might be enough tip weight.  In earlier days guys would build the inboard wing longer with the idea to lift the lines and not require tip weight.   While that can be sorta true it ignores the fact you are creating a bunch more drag on the inboard side which tends to make the airplane turn in towards you.   This is cured by more engine and/or rudder offset or lead out sweep if you make that adjustable.  This is why I have built equal span wings for a long time....neither here nor there......Another thing I have done on CLASSIC ships is NOT put in a top weight box but when test flying I stick on modeling clay to the outboard tip and adjust it up or down until satisfied with the amount.   I then weigh the clay I used on a gram scale.   I cut a small hole under the outboard tip and glue in that amount of weight and patch the hole.    As long as you stay with the same line length and weight you shouldn't have to mess with it again.

Dave

[Dennis Toth]

Dave, with the heavy wood one option is to finish with film. You can do a film finish for less than half the weight of dope or even more if its auto paint. I have seen a number of ships done in film that would be front row. Takes a little time but it could turn what would be a lead sled into a competitive flyer. Just a thought.

Best,   DennisT

[Dave Lajb]

Thanks so much Dave Lajb!  I now have the wing almost complete. Decided to add an adjustable leadout, and to add a weight box to the outside wing tip. The instructions say wingtip weight is not needed, but I'm not so sure about that.  The adjustable leadout I made is shown in the photo. Using 0.031" diameter music wire leadouts.
[/qM;uote]

Now that I think about it one other thing I wish I did was make a box for tail weight.  There is plenty of room between bulk heads.  ]I know its going to need tail weight. 

[Scott Richlen]

Build it light!  Many years ago, I had a flying buddy who built the kit using the Sterling wood and then finished it in Hobby-Poxy.  Wow was it gorgeous!  But Wow! ... was it heavy!  First flight - he does a wing-over.  It comes loose on the lines and burries itself in the ground right up to the leading edge!  He pulls it out and all that is broken is the prop!  Not a scratch on that Hobby-Poxy finish!  Of course the plane was a dog and just couldn't do much stunt-wise.