ALWAYS read the instructions!

[Andrew Borgogna]

I learned a hard/expensive lession yesterday.  I bought some silk from RSM to cover my new Ringmaster.  Having been puttling silk on planes, oh, for forty years I didn't need to read no D@#$n directions.  Well it seems the silk that RSM sells in not your fathers model airplane silk.  It is a much tighter weave and requires much less dope to seal.  But because of the tighter weave it does not shrink nearly as much.  No problem if you follow the directions that come with the silk, you know the ones I never looked at.  I called Eric yesterday and mentioned I had used the silk, first words out of his mouth "did you follow the instructions".  My reply "what instruction's know how to put silk on".  Well it seems this new silk must be put on soaking wet and pulled real tight to get a nice tight finish.  When I told Eric how I put on the silk he told me to "pull it off and do it over", he was right with each coat of dope the silk got worst and worst.  So I removed the silk and will have to do it over again, this time following the directions.  Expensive silk, expensive dope, expensive dye ruined all because I didn't read the directions.  Needless to say this was not the fault of the RSM silk or the directions, the fault belongs to the guy I look at in the mirror every morning.
Andy

[Scott Hartford]

It's refreshing to hear someone actually admit their mistake! I hope it comes out much nicer this time!

[Clint Ormosen]

One of my mottos is " Real men read instructions and ask directions."

[john e. holliday]

Good going Andrew, so that is what that peice of paper is.  Don't feel lonesome as I have had to go back and redo things.  Now, once in awhile I may read the instructions several times as suggested in some kits.  Have fun,  DOC Holliday

[Andrew Borgogna]

Good going Andrew, so that is what that peice of paper is.  Don't feel lonesome as I have had to go back and redo things.  Now, once in awhile I may read the instructions several times as suggested in some kits.  Have fun,  DOC Holliday
*************************
Thanks Doc, its always good to hear from you.
Andy

[Marvin Denny]

  Andy, would you be so kind as to copy and E-Mail me a copy of those instructions? I sure would appreciate it.

  Marvin Denny  aka Bigiron    <mdenny4@cox.net>

[Bill Little]

Glad to hear it, since that's the way I have always put on silk (and silkspan!)!
(never knew there was any *other* way to do it! )  But, don't try it with Jap Tissue................

[Randy Powell]

I get told this alot: RTFM. It's a famous phrase on Linux sites when you start asking dumb questions about things that are in the program directions or FAC

I've gotten a bit gunshy about asking anything until I've completely read the ReadMe file and/or program directions. Same with things like engines from Randy Smith or Richard Oliver. I read everything before I say, uh, how do you do this.

[Leester]

Hope this turns out:

[Andrew Borgogna]

So that's what the instructions look like.  I really never did see them, they were tossed before I ever tried to apply the silk.  The instructions are exactly what Eric told me over the phone.  Since I still have some silk I will print the instructions for future use.
Andy

[Alan Hahn]

I had a similar experience. I covered my now-gone Twister with silk (not RSM or "normal" model plane silk, but that from the the online silk store--forgot their name) and used Sig Nitrate. It never really got tight.
Then for some reason I looked at the Sig Nitrate can. It said NOT to use it on silk, but instead use Sig Supercote Clear---Sig's high shrink butyrate for doping the wing. So sometimes it does pay to read before you start---actually most times!

[Leo Mehl]

I learned a hard/expensive lession yesterday.  I bought some silk from RSM to cover my new Ringmaster.  Having been puttling silk on planes, oh, for forty years I didn't need to read no D@#$n directions.  Well it seems the silk that RSM sells in not your fathers model airplane silk.  It is a much tighter weave and requires much less dope to seal.  But because of the tighter weave it does not shrink nearly as much.  No problem if you follow the directions that come with the silk, you know the ones I never looked at.  I called Eric yesterday and mentioned I had used the silk, first words out of his mouth "did you follow the instructions".  My reply "what instruction's know how to put silk on".  Well it seems this new silk must be put on soaking wet and pulled real tight to get a nice tight finish.  When I told Eric how I put on the silk he told me to "pull it off and do it over", he was right with each coat of dope the silk got worst and worst.  So I removed the silk and will have to do it over again, this time following the directions.  Expensive silk, expensive dope, expensive dye ruined all because I didn't read the directions.  Needless to say this was not the fault of the RSM silk or the directions, the fault belongs to the guy I look at in the mirror every morning.
Andy

I had a boss one time that never would admit he made a mistake. He was not the richest guy in the world!

[john e. holliday]

I had a similar experience. I covered my now-gone Twister with silk (not RSM or "normal" model plane silk, but that from the the online silk store--forgot their name) and used Sig Nitrate. It never really got tight.
Then for some reason I looked at the Sig Nitrate can. It said NOT to use it on silk, but instead use Sig Supercote Clear---Sig's high shrink butyrate for doping the wing. So sometimes it does pay to read before you start---actually most times!

I have used SIG Nitrate for the seal coats on poly-ester fabric from the sewing store.  It looks bad after the first 4 or 5 coats of clear is applied.  Then I brush on two coats of SIG Butyrate and it comes out drum tight.  Have fun,  DOC Holliday