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Author Topic: Adjustable lead-outs  (Read 1153 times)

Offline Cliff Henke

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Adjustable lead-outs
« on: December 19, 2012, 07:30:44 PM »
Would someone please tell me which direction ( Nose - Tail ) to slide the adjustable lead-out plate on my 38 Special ( Or any C/L plane ) to advance the outboard wing tip forward during flight.

I have tried 4 different positions but can't seem to get it to do what I want. It's flying level with all offsets at 2.5*.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Cliff

PS I was lucky enough to get in 9 flights today and bring them home like they left. A good day.
Wasting away the moments that make up a dull day...................

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Adjustable lead-outs
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2012, 09:35:52 PM »
Moving the leadout guides forward will move the inboard tip(s) aft, and the outboard tip(s) forward.

"It's flying level with all offsets at 2.5*."   ??   ??? Steve
"The United States has become a place where professional athletes and entertainers are mistaken for people of importance." - Robert Heinlein

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Offline Cliff Henke

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Re: Adjustable lead-outs
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2012, 09:57:41 PM »
Yeah Steve, Wing tip to wing tip. Seems to be anyway ? Both planes. The Twister wing flies in line with the lines and me, maybe a 1/2"-3/4".
But the Bi-Wing does not ? It flies noticeably more aft. Just trying to trim out this plane but I really don't know how the best way to achieve this is ?
In other words, with what I got, what do I want the plane to fly like to train for the basic stunts.

Thanks for the reply,
Cliff
Wasting away the moments that make up a dull day...................

Offline Bootlegger

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Re: Adjustable lead-outs
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2012, 05:19:09 AM »

  Try this the next time that you go flyin, as you are in level flight look down the trailin edge of the wing, and see if it is in a straight line, also look at the fuel pattern goin back over the plane, it should be slightly outboard.

  One other thing, are the wheels in line with each other?  Should see a slight amount of the out board wheel..

  Hope that this helps, nd Merry CHRISTmas...
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Gil Causey
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Offline John Cralley

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Re: Adjustable lead-outs
« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2012, 08:35:41 AM »
You might try taking some of that 2.5 degrees  offset out (rudder I presume). You maybe can go all the way down to zero offset (many planes fly fine at 0 offset).
John Cralley
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Re: Adjustable lead-outs
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2012, 11:06:55 AM »
  Try this the next time that you go flyin, as you are in level flight look down the trailin edge of the wing, and see if it is in a straight line, also look at the fuel pattern goin back over the plane, it should be slightly outboard.

  One other thing, are the wheels in line with each other?  Should see a slight amount of the out board wheel..

  Hope that this helps, nd Merry CHRISTmas...

I do not know if that shows anything because the amount of yaw seen varies as the model goes around the circle in wind.  If you do not think so, sight down the lines for a complete lap when flying in the wind.  The first 30% of the lines are quite straight and will normally sight at some rearward part of the fuselage.  (The lines are forming a part of a curve best described as a catenary as explained by Bill Netzeband and Pete Soule.)  As the model moves into the wind, that point on the fuselage that the lines are pointing to will move aft.  The wheels will not always be lined up nor will the trailing edge (no sweep?) always be lined up with anything.

The main reason for moving the leadouts at the tip is to adjust for best line tension.  When you find the best line tension for a given balance point while flying the pattern, it does not make much difference that the wheels line up or the trailing edge lines up with anything.  If you change the balance point, you will probably need to change the leadout postion for best line tension when flying through the pattern.  When the model has the most line tension in level flight, the model might not have the most desirable line tension on the vertical maneuvers (the tops of the vertical eights, hourglass, and the four leaf clover).  You will need to adjust the balance point (within the bounds of desired turning ability and being stable) and the tip weight to find that best combination.

KT















two top loops of the four leaf clover) may not 

Offline Igor Burger

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Re: Adjustable lead-outs
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2012, 01:31:31 PM »
The first 30% of the lines are quite straight and will normally sight at some rearward part of the fuselage.  (The lines are forming a part of a curve best described as a catenary as explained by Bill Netzeband and Pete Soule.)  As the model moves into the wind, that point on the fuselage that the lines are pointing to will move aft.  The wheels will not always be lined up nor will the trailing edge (no sweep?) always be lined up with anything.
Yes lines make curve as they explained, but that curve is connected at tip of inboard wing. So the curvature is not reason for yaw. Properly trimmed and designed model shoud stay at the same position to the pilot (center of the hemisphere) also in wind. Not only LO position but also rudder needs its proper position, and since the lines drag and also rudder side lift depend on the same magnutude of incomming air, so it is possible to trim model that it keeps the same position not only independent on actual or variable air speed, but also line tension.

Because if model yaws inward if it hits incomming wind, it will do the same also overhead in hourglass (and even more because of lower line tension because of gravity), and it will mean even lower line tension. Rudder and LO position MUST keep constant yaw, if rudder is excessive, nose will yaw out overhead, model slows down and lose line tension, if rudder is too little it will yaw down, it will not slow down, but it will loose line tension anyway.


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