You will love it the second time you use it.
Ken
Why do you guys avoid using "silk?"
I've tried them all, and I find silk much easier to apply and work with, especially now that I've found a way to apply it dry with CA, in minutes per wing. This means I can do an entire model in less than a half hour, ready for clear dope.
Also, and I've mentioned this before, I fill the weave in only three coats.
All "paper" coverings are so easy to tare, but you cannot tear silk. Silk is much stronger than
all the others. Plus, if you sand through the clear, you can "hear" the silk. I sand no clear till I have three coats in my open bays anyway.
Sure, silk weighs 11 grams more than the others per sq. yard, but, as I said, I find silk fills in three coats. Obviously this would vary depending on the mix. I only use Sig products.
You don't have to be concerned as to what side is up or down, and I can buy 5 yards of silk for 15 bucks, offered in many colors.
Polyspan doesn't work well around wing tips. And silk lays down better on sheeted areas, especially areas which also taper, compound curved areas like many of the fuselages I design into my models.
I have a feeling no one does "tests" any more?
Putting the time in doing my own tests is why I graduated to only using silk. Plus the tests I did using CA.
I'm sold on silk and the way I apply it because all the other coverings didn't give me the results I'm looking for with my models.
Someplace in this Build I have text and photos explaining how I apply silk. And this model has no "flat" areas.
Here's the last model I silked using CA to cover the wing open bays, and silk was used to cover the rest of the sheeted areas, applied with Deft Lacquer wood sealer. All coats forced dried with a heat gun. Saves time.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/cfc-graphics/gee-bee-r-3-build!-semi-scale-cl-stunter!/