You've got about 3 times the space. It's more figuring out where to put the battery plugin. I'm using Dean's bulkhead mounts.

You may be right, I kept the pipe tunnel in the design so I probably have more room at the bottom.  I used the same concept on a converted ARF Nobler and got both the timer and the arming plug into the cowling leaving the entire tank compartment for the battery with the esc between the mounts under the battery.  Still the most I could fit was a stubby 4s.  Turnegy makes a rather thin 4s and 5s in there "Nano" line that would probably fit in around the 3000 - 3300 size.  Not as light as the Thunderpower but they perform well.

I have gone to placing the esc into the wing area behind the battery to keep it from forcing cooling vents in the top and to move some weight closer to the CG.  I was tired of having to add tail weight.  Hopefully in what is left of my usable lifetime we will have a battery that doesn't weigh so much and is smaller.

It is hard with the "Classics"/N30's to find room for a decent size battery.

I absolutely love the plane so far, even if you aren't going to paint it as a Weasel!

Ken

It's a fun plane to build overall. Lot of challenges but hey, that's why we do this stuff.

 Fun to watch people build these designs that can do them justice too. 

Well Bob, the tanks have been the most challenging for me. I hogged the intakes all out and put a backstop to imitate an inset. I finished the intake part up to ready to paint as I didn't think I could get in there to sand after they were on. Got one drop tank done. Sheesh, that was a ton of work.   

Wayne, the pylon is glued to the wing but the tank bolts on. I was pretty happy. The tank and pylon weighed in at about 15 grams.

Bob, hope mine lasts awhile. I'm planning to use basically the same setup I used in the ill fated Mirage. It seemed to have plenty of power. 2826-10 930kv motor, 60 amp esc, Hubin timer and a 4 cell, 2800mAh battery.

 Looks cool. I bet it's gonna be some fun blending those intakes into the wing.

This is bringing back memories of all the insane things we built in the 60's and 70's.   This one was one of my favorites. I wish I had built it.  I did build one along the lines of the F-14 with the huge intakes.  Didn't last long, faulty clevis but it flew remarkably well.  I was surprised that all that junk under the wing and intakes had no noticeable impact on how well it flew.  That 2nd picture has "Fly Me" written all over it.  Anybody who worked on these magnificent planes will never forget the sound of the AB makes when they take off with a full load.  "Thud" and the ground shakes, which ironically is not where it got it's nickname!  Paint it up as a 105F. (I never give up)

Ken

 Man this one is tough. I keep searching every so often for '104 schemes but it's either camo or semi-boring bare aluminum with very minimal squadron coloring. Apparently there were no "colorful" groups using them. All I do know is the world doesn't really need another model done in a Thunderbird scheme.

I found the paint scheme I'm going to use, but it doesn't vary much from Bob's original.  Two tone gray, some blue and red and a touch of yellow.

The vents look better in person.

So, one flap done. All that's left is the outboard flap and fairings.

Throw in a picture or two of the "electronics bay" (sounds better than "tank compartment") when you get it finished.  I am curious how you laid it out.  Are you venting through the spinner gap?  All of my electrics have a huge front intake and a whole bunch of rear vents.  You don't have any way to do that. 

Can't wait to see it finished.

ken

Well, unfortunately, I had to cut a bunch of vents. Shame, that.

 You know, if it had a "tank compartment"... 

 Seriously though, looks really cool Randy, time to get out the blue stuff!

 Ouch, that's a bummer. Didn't you have a motor to work with during the build though? IDK, maybe with electric there's a million of them all with the same dimensions?

Thanks for the offer, guys. I found one. I wanted to have two separate setups. If the thing ends up being tail heavy (a possibility), I wanted a heavier drive train to use instead of adding nose weight.

So Setup Number 1:

Cobra 2826/10 930kv motor, 60amp ECS, Hubin Timer and 4s 2800 mAh battery.

or

Cobra 2826/12 760kv motor, same ESC and timer, 5s 2800 mAh battery.

When I built it, I had the 2826/12. Either setup would work but I prefer the lighter one if possible.

I used the 2826/10 with 11x5 three blade carbon prop and a 4s battery in my Mirage. 620sq inches and weighed, well, a lot. 68oz ready to fly. left about 15-16% in battery. Plenty of power.

 Way cool Randy. What's the backwards scoopy looking thing on the left side of the nose?

 Does anyone make a simple remote start setup for these things?

OK, so it's covered. Man, this is going to need a lot of sanding. GM on wings, 00 everywhere else.

And sanding and sanding and sanding.......  Om-Madai-Padi-Ummmmm....

Doing 600 wet right now. Then it will be color time. Tomorrow, I hope.

Had an interruption. My wife took a dive off her horse and severely dislocated her hand and fractured her wrist. The last week I've been nursing her after surgery and such. Threw my schedule off a bit. 

So, some of it's painted.

Thanks, Bob. Nice picture. 

This is the vague guideline.

This is the vague guideline.

 I was wondering about the green, but I get it now. 

Seemed the thing.

Anti glair.

Ken

 Yep, I knew that, most often anti-glare panels were done in black though. I just thought the green seemed an odd choice for the "Thud", until I saw the reference Randy is using. There are very few F-105 schemes to pick from that have much for color, Randy found a good one here.