Does anyone have the correct procedure for removing the valves from a Saito 56 cylinder head.   

I have a 56 that has been sitting for about 3 years.  I did put in after run oil after the last use. 

I pulled it out to use on my new plane and the exhaust valve wont close all the way and is leaking during compression stroke.  It also sticks closed once it is closed as far as it will go.  Needless to say this is not good.  When I first took it out and set it up on the test stand to run it in some it ran fine and had some compression but felt weak.  Now it will free wheel like there are no valves in it.

I have the cylinder and the ring is in good condition it just appears there is old gunk on the valve seats and guides.  Disassembly and cleaning should cure the issue. 

I just cant figure out how to get the retainer clip off the valve.  I am sure there is a tool needed as well. 

Any input is greatly appreciated and pics would be great too.

I don’t want to send it in because I want to learn how to do it myself.  This stuff is fun to me.  If I screw it up I will sell off some motors and get another one, which I will probably do anyway.

Thanks in advance.

Doug,

If the rocker arm cover(s?) can be removed, you may find help by loading the pushrod protecting tubes with penetrating oil, or WD-40. This can either thin gummed oil in the tubes, or - if they're clear - loosen up the oil at the cam end of the pushrods. It seems unlikely the valves, themselves, would be stricking at their rocker arms or the valve guides (in the head.) Valve springs are usually pretty powerful. If the valve guides in the ports themselves are sticky, the WD- or penetrating oil should help that, too.

Haven't played with any SAITO, so far, but photos I've seen show the protective tubes over the pushrods, down to the fore-aft-cam housing.

An OS 40-4C I hadn't turned over in many years was gummy, late last year. The thin oil treatment loosened things nicely. Of course, don't turn the engine through much, if at all, until the valves open and close with the cam and pushrods! It is possible, theoretically at least, for the piston to strike a valve that hasn't returned to its seat...

And if you use thin oil, try to flush as much as possible out of the engine before running it. Normal fuel castor, synthetic or blend has enough lubricating ability... the thin oils likely do not. Flush with your intended fuel, then.