Author Topic: storeing (Read 658 times)

roger · « **on:** August 12, 2009, 03:17:43 PM »

whats the best way to store a motor for a very long time say 5 years or so? also getting a motor out of the moth balls what do you do if its been stored a long long time and is all tite now how do you bring it back to life?

kenneth cook · « **Reply #1 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:02:48 PM »

Roger, I own several Fox .35's that were sitting virtually unprotected other than in a box for the last 25 + years. I basically flushed the engines out with denatured alcohol and oiled them up with a little 3 in one prior to starting. With these engines, I just checked to make sure that the con rod wasn't stuck on the crank pin and that it slid back and forth easily on the wrist pin. This took a little heat and a small allen wrench prying off the crank web to assist its movement. Newer engines aren't using as much castor as the older ones so I would imagine a doseage of after run oil into the ventui and cylinder followed by some repeated flips. I would just then plug the venturi and also exhaust ports to stop unwanted dirt filtering in. I'm sure a light oiling of the case isn't going to hurt anything. I've never done this but then again I never had oxidation form on them either. I have a pretty climate controlled storage area. I would just be sure that there is no signs of fuel in the engine prior to storage. You didn't mention if you had ball bearing engines either. These just require a thorough oiling of the internals and race areas with the after run as well. I wouldn't recommend using WD-40 for storage purposes. Ken

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #2 on:** August 12, 2009, 06:09:29 PM »

I use Rislone for after run and storage, and it lasts for years without gumming up.

roger · « **Reply #3 on:** August 12, 2009, 07:14:41 PM »

jim
tiis motor was sitting around for about 15 years the motors are super tigers and os maxes there all gummed up and wont even turn, what can i do to get them back to life?

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #4 on:** August 12, 2009, 07:37:11 PM »

Heat and penitrating oil is about the best I have found. I load them up with penitrating oil, and let them soak awhile. Then hit them with a heat gun while working at what little if any movement I can get. It is best not to force them, as you can bend or break a rod of shaft. I have also removed the head and back plate, and put them in the crock pot for a couple of days with antifreeze. Many times I still have to resort to penitrating oil and the heat gun though, even after the crock pot. When engines are this badly stuck, and as soon as I get them freed up, I completely tear them down for a good cleaning. I have been surprised how much congealed oil and gunk you will find in them. Try to make notes on how parts are removed, mostly rods, cyl. sleeves, and pistons. Sometimes 4 bolt back plates go on a special way also. I have had some pretty stuborn engines, but with patience, and heat, you will win.

roger · « **Reply #5 on:** August 12, 2009, 07:45:18 PM »

jim when you put the motor in a crock pot are you cookin it in there? and whats the anti freeze do? how long you cook it for?

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #6 on:** August 12, 2009, 08:15:06 PM »

Yes; I do cook it on low heat. Most crock pots have two settings, and I use the lowest one. The antifreeze will clean the gunk off of everything when heated. It does nothing when cold. If you have any paint on your engine, it will remove it. I sometimes leave it in for 24 hours, check to see if it will move, and if not, put it back in for another 24 hours. It will remove all of the old burned on castor. Needless to say, you never want to use that crock pot for cooking food in again. I had to buy my wife a new one.

If your Super Tigres are ringed, it is a good idea, after you get it apart, to put the piston in the crock pot to free up the rings, and clean up the ring grooves. You do not want to remove the rings unless you are going to replace them, as they do get brittle with age and will probably break when you expand them. Just spin them around the piston until they are good and free, and all of the gunk is out of the ring grooves. I generally wash all of the parts in hot water, heat with a heat gun to dry, and oil everthing up with Rislone.

Pinecone · « **Reply #7 on:** August 14, 2009, 05:06:33 PM »

In reviving my old engines (sitting for some 30 years) I found a heat gun to be the best thing. Warm it up until it will turn, then squirt some solvent in it to thin the oil. Then flush with solvent and oil (some old fuel is great).

Bill Little · « **Reply #8 on:** August 19, 2009, 08:46:27 AM »

If it is an engine I am storing, I use Rislone and air tool oil mixed together for oiling everything. Plenty down the venturi, in the exhaust port and through the glo plug hole then flip it a bunch. Into the zip lock bag it goes.

If it is an engine that I didn't store, myself, or one that I get after sitting a long time, I boil it and tear it down. I boil it in dish washer (not dish washing) detergent and clean it all up. I use the Rislone/air tool oil mix to reassemble and make new gaskets if necessary.

The MAJOR thing is that the con rod isn't stuck on the piston pin. if so, the engine will be toast before long if run that way.

Big Bear

roger · « **Reply #9 on:** August 19, 2009, 08:08:54 PM »

whats the diff in washer and dish washing

Scott Hartford · « **Reply #10 on:** August 21, 2009, 11:50:03 AM »

Dishwasher detergent is what you put in a dishwashing machine, dishwashing detergent is a liquid you hand-wash dishes with. Dishwasher detergent (like Cascade) is much stronger.

Author Topic: storeing (Read 658 times)

roger

storeing

kenneth cook

Re: storeing

Jim Kraft

Re: storeing

roger

Re: storeing

Jim Kraft

Re: storeing

roger

Re: storeing

Jim Kraft

Re: storeing

Pinecone

Re: storeing

Bill Little

Re: storeing

roger

Re: storeing

Scott Hartford

Re: storeing