Does anyone have experience with the phenolic engine pads ? Are they just as good as the aluminium ? They are thinner and less motor mount has to be trimmed away. And I would say lighter in weight. Any comments ?

Kim: The fusalage formers are cut for the motor mounts to set in so the adjust the motor mounts up or down would require either trimming the mounts or the formers. To use engine pads without changing the highth of the engine would require trimming the mounts. The phenolic pads I have are 1/16th and would extend beyond the engine mounting holes front and back they are 2 1/2" long.

Kim: The fuselage formers are cut for the motor mounts to set in so the adjust the motor mounts up or down would require either trimming the mounts or the formers. To use engine pads without changing the height of the engine would require trimming the mounts. The phenolic pads I have are 1/16th and would extend beyond the engine mounting holes front and back they are 2 1/2" long.

Since the model is not yet built, I would modify the formers. The 1/16" pads are not thick enough. The purpose of the pad is to spread out the clamping force from the engine lugs so that they do not dig in. I think you would be OK at 3/32" up to a .35 from there on up I would use 1/8". As to where the engine actually sits, the nose is usually carved from some number of blocks so that moving its center line should not pose a big deal. If you end up lowering the engine that is not such a big problem as you will in all likelihood have to raise the tank a bit anyway. This gives you some adjustablility. Don't raise the bridge, lower the water. If you do not want to try this then at least use the appropriate thickness of phenolic.

If you need further help just ask or PM me and I will make sure you get it done right.

Kim.

        Leester,
   I used to use 1/16th aluminum & stainless steel. Stainless was good but you need a cobalt bit drill.
I have since gone to 1/8th inch unidirectional carbon fiber. It's lighter and stiffer and easy to drill.
I do not cut away any engine bearer wood.
        Ted   

Here's how I do my profiles:

I use a "C" composite plastic mount from Sig or similar.  I made a template for my router to cut an inlay in the doublers.  I set the router depth to equal the thickness of the profile pad - usually just cutting into the maple bearer.  Using a bottoming bit it also insures both bearers are dead flat and level.  Use enough epoxy just to seal off the mount to avoid fuel seepage.  I also used a dab of JB Weld to fill in any gap between doubler and mount, sand, cover and paint.

The finished product is invisible and you won't crush any plywood or have a chuck of metal or phenolic rearing their ugly heads on your profile.  Like, why do I need to offset my engine another 1/8" to the outside?