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Author Topic: PA 40 Run-in.  (Read 1667 times)

Offline Robert Zambelli

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PA 40 Run-in.
« on: February 01, 2009, 11:54:53 AM »
I have a new PA .40 without any paperwork.

What is the proper fuel and break-in procedure?

Bob Z.

Offline Alan Buck

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2009, 12:39:51 PM »
Hi Bob, Randy may chim in but he say to use a good  5% to10% fuel with 20 to 23% oil 1/2&1/2 oil. or call Randy he is very helpful over the phone.
ALAN E BUCK

Alan Hahn

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2009, 12:44:17 PM »
Check the sticky at the top of this forum by Randy.

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2009, 08:06:55 PM »
Send it to me. I don't need no steenking instructions. Do you want it back anytime soon?  ~> Steve
"The United States has become a place where professional athletes and entertainers are mistaken for people of importance." - Robert Heinlein

In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.  In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings.

Offline RandySmith

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2009, 01:32:23 PM »
I have a new PA .40 without any paperwork.

What is the proper fuel and break-in procedure?

Bob Z.

Hi Bob

I sent you a sheet that comes with all PA  engines, also see below

Precision Aero   Engines
Your P.A. engine is one of the finest and motors made anywhere. for this reason it will develop much more usable power throughout it’s lifetime, and also last longer. It has been manufactured as a stunt engine from the inside out. Our manufacturing process uses only the best quality of parts and materials machined to exacting tolerances on state of the art C.N.C. machines. Please read and follow instructions on break-in and use good common sense on fuel and running your engine.

FUEL
For most all use of your P A engines , use a  high quality fuel containing a mixture of synthetic and pure AA grade castor ( a 25 to50% of the total castor mix is suitable ie.. 25 castor75 synth.).5 or 10 % nitromethane (5%in cooler months and in larger motors ) should be sufficient for most all styles of running.If you use too high a nitro content the engines can break too hard and-or charge through the maneuvers.
Generally you will run 20 % oil . Never run all castor, or all synthetic in these engines, or use any fuel that does not meet the above stated criteria. Low castor content is OK
Never use any of the r/c sport type fuels , these have to low of an oil content (12 to 15 %) and you will not have good runs or long life from your engine. Model fuels contain methanol and other ingredients which are poisonous , use extreme care when using them. WE highly recommend AERO-1 fuel supplement  for  all model engines

PROPS
Typically a good prop to start with are these: for the 40 PA pipe version, use a 11.2 x 4 3 blade or 11.5 x 4 -2 blade. For muffler versions of the 40 , use a 11 x 5, 11.5 x 5, 11.5 x 4.75 in 2 or 3blade versions. For 51 - 65 sized P A engines use a 12 to 13 inch diameter in the same pitches as above The PA 75 will use a 13-15 inch 3 blade or 14-15 inch 2 blade ,3 blades work very well, remember you need to load the engine). These are general guide lines. You can use wood props but you will find BOLLY props to be the finest performing props available anywhere. All props are very dangerous, use care when around them. Please use the pipe tuning chart that came with your engine. Setting pipes too short can cut the life of your engine in half.

Glow Plugs
Use only long reach type glow-plugs of the hot variety; such as Enya #3,4,
Glo-Devil #300 , Merlin, THUNDER BOLT  R/C long, and 4-cycle plugs.
Initial Run and Break-in
Mount the new engine securely on a good test stand, you can also install the muffler or pipe. Screw the needle out 5  turns from the seat and start using the same fuel you fly with, cover the venturi with your finger and
flip briskly 2 times , then remove finger and turn engine over in a counter-clockwise direction as fast as you can , this vaporizes the fuel, clip the battery on and start with a starting stick. when the engine starts it should be in a fast 4 cycle, you want to run this engine in a very fast 4 cycle and then into a rich 2 cycle. Continue to run it back and forth about every 60 seconds, try to run only 4 to 6 ounces of fuel at a time. Your P. A. engine has a extremely hard chrome liner , and will take at least 2 hours running time to get an initial break-in and it will continue to break I for the next 10 or so hours. Never run the engine in a sloppy 4 cycle, this can result in damage to the rod and other parts, and will not help in the break-in process. Do not try to break-in your engine under very high  (under .015  clearance ) compression ratio, this is bad on the rod, run in with the gaskets that came installed in the motor. ONLY After break-in if you feel you have to change compression, ( usually not needed )the procedure for  adjusting head gaskets are as follows: Put piston on top dead center, with no glow plug, remove the prop and head, keep piston at the top while setting the desired deck height, then carefully (do not let  the sleeve move) reinstall the head.  Due to extreme case compression and the use of True venturies instead of restrictors, the motors will draw fuel and prime very easy, normally  you only need to prime motors three  or four times at most, more prime usually just floods the motors and makes it hard to start. especially hot starts, the engines start extremely well if you pay attention to this. We almost always have 1 flip starts. Take care with your venturies, if you drill them out to a larger  size, it ruins the venturi effect and they DO NOT WORK as well, you can return them for resizing .
       All engines  from all manufactures  leak fuel from the  front.., this is the  way the front bearing is lubricated, If no fuel goes thru the bearings they will burn up and wear. Leaking fuel from the front is Normal and  NOT part of any warranty.  This does not affect the  run of the engine in any way. PA engines have very close tolerances and fits, and have very high crankcase compression. Leakage with these and  every engine  made  will occur
WE use the  best bearings available and have shield\sealed  front bearings, and a very high quality phenolic rear bearings. Some will leak more than others and this will depend on how its run and many other factors, some of the leaking people notice is coming out of the top of the venturi and not the  bearing. On pipe engine ,pipe setting can sometimes cause fuel to be pumped from the venturi
Care Of Your Engine
Dirt will ruin your engine, take care and always use a air and fuel filter.
If your engine becomes excessively dirty clean it by removing the backplate and glow plug and flushing with fuel. Do not take the engine apart any further, should it require additional service send back to :AERO PRODUCTS. Always use after run oil when storing your engine for more than a couple of days.
WARRANTY
Your Precision Aero Engine is Guaranteed to be free of defects in parts and workmanship for the original owner for a 6 month period. This warranty
 excludes crash damage, abuse,running improper fuel, normal wear, taking the engine apart will void the warranty. For service under warranty the entire engine, plus date and proof of purchase, should be returned to the address below. Thank you for the purchase of this fine product.
                                                RANDY

AERO PRODUCTS
980 Winnbrook Dr.
DACULA, GEORGIA
30019   U.S.A.
PHONE 678-407-9376
FAX 678-985-5085
www.aeroproduct.net

Offline proparc

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2009, 06:07:59 PM »
Just exactly how did you get your hands a PA with no paperwork!!!!! hmmmm  ::)
Milton "Proparc" Graham

Offline Robert Zambelli

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2009, 02:38:42 PM »
It's an experimental 4 stroke PA.  LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~

Bob Z.

Offline RandySmith

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2009, 07:57:44 PM »
It's an experimental 4 stroke PA.  LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~

Bob Z.


Of course ,, ALL  PA engines 4 stroke  y1

Offline Robert Zambelli

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Re: PA 40 Run-in.
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2009, 07:26:02 AM »
 LL~ LL~ LL~

This will be interesting. I will use it to replace a Surpass 40 (the WORST 4S engine I've ever had. Just that one, the rest of the Surpass 40s are fine engines) in my old Euclid.

I will of course report on it.

Bob Z.


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