Hi Bob,
Several years ago I went to local college and talked to a physics professor.
I asked him about gyroscopic inertia. One question I asked if you take a force like gyroscopic inertia and place it at the end of a fulcrum that's attached to a body can you increase or decrease the effect of the force on that body by increasing or decreasing the fulcrum length. He answered yes but in order to quantify it I would have to wrap my mind some equations
which I had never heard of before.
Ever since then, when I am looking at increasing prop size substantially I also look at shortening the nose moment if possible to reduce the effects of gyroscopic inertia. I have flown planes that were already a tiny bit nose heavy with a normal nose moment and when you put a bigger prop on them they wouldn't turn at all.
In short, I am less worried about the increased engine weight than the combined effect of the weight+ inertia.
Bob, I agree with you that four strokes are torque machines which is why I asked about "sweet spot" between max torque and max HP. I don't want to load the engine below it's max torque rpm and I don't want to strain the engine trying to run a bigger prop at the engines max HP rpm.
I read on the Saito website about issues on running the engines inverted
and reccomended starting out running the engine on its side and it also simplifies setting up tank height alignment to the engine. I addition, vertical CG is not effected as much by a heavier engine as it would be if was inverted.
A 4 ounce tank means you don't have a heavy fuel load to deal with.
Computing the volume for the complex angled shapes of my front pickup chicken hopper tank is a pain in the rear but I still have some of them around and the bucks I shaped them on so it may not be so bad.
Replacing the landing gear is a given with bigger props.
I think I should try to make the tail removeable so if I need to go bigger then it is just a bolt in process.
I think a Tom Morris 4" bellcrank is called for given the prospect of greater control loads on the system.
Bob, the Rev-up is a nice light fairly low drag prop but I have even improved their performance by doing prop mods. Any engine power wasted on prop drag is not available to fly the plane so even simple prop "cleanups" are worth doing. A plane with a cleaned up prop feels like you added nitro to the fuel because the engine performs better. On a K&B 40 I would cut down 12" -13" Rev-up props to 11 5/8 / 5 and clean them up so the engine could turn these wider props at the same rpm as a narrow prop which yielded a net gain in thrust.
I did some experiments on some larger props with a OS 61 gear reduced
engine. A 16/10 prop could only turn at 4,000 rpm but a after progressive prop mods this same engine turned it 8,100 rpm. I was amazed by what can be accomplished with prop modification. Hal DeBolt was right.
There are limits, don't weaken the inner section to the point you risk hub failure. Dont thin the prop so it becomes too flexible. On a wood prop 10% - 12% of chord is the minimum blade thickness (Carbon can go thinner and maintain stiffness).
For what I do, you need major prop mods including narrowing the planform shape of the prop. Narrowing the prop does cost you thrust but from what I have read and experienced prop diameter is "king" in producing vertical performance.
A tuned pipe setup generates loads of thrust by running the engine at the rpm where it produces max power with right prop and uses the pipe as a governor to control that power. Randy Smith told me you could hand launch a full size stunter vertically into a wingover it has so much thrust.
A four stroke on the other hand is usually a lower rpm one-speed machine without a 2-4 break , so I reasoned that increasing the prop diameter was the best way to increase thrust and it seemed to work.
Bob, thanks for your information and for listening while I think this through on the fly. I admit I am getting more interested in this idea.
This is interesting stuff!
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Pat Robinson