In Philly we run FP40s with the large diameter (.283) venturi, stock needlevalve, free flowing tongue muffler, an extra head gasket or two extra Tower 40 head gaskets, an Enya #3 plug, a 101/2 by 41/2 apc prop, 5%, 22% (50/50) Powermaster fuel. We use the larger venturi and a free flowing tongue muffler in order to improve the cooling of the engine. We've found this setup to be powerful with 2x2 break.
The OS head gaskets measure .016 while the Tower gaskets measure .010, that's why we use two of them to get the needed head clearance. Leonard Newman sells excellent .010 head gaskets. Stock up if you plan to run these engines. The FP40 is sometimes more finicky than the LA. However, outside of purpose built stunt 40s, it's tops in 40 sized power.
Set the engine on the ground, waiting for it to warm up for twenty seconds or so. Try to get that back and forth stunt idle. With an FP it'll sound pretty nasty with the muffler opened up enough to work. See how it does in the air. The setting on the ground may be different than the resulting flight setting. The trick is to set it on the ground so that it works right in the air.
Profiles sometimes cause weird vibrations that can make it rough. (See my posts concerning an ARF Primary Force that took a while to tune in.) Build the nose as rigid as possible using the usual tricks.
It helps to have someone around with gifted ears, who can set the engine in the range where everything works sweet. Cold weather condition, high humidity, hot weather etc. may need to be accounted for with slightly different needle settings.
Avoid uniflo initially. If you get a solid consistent run gradually leaning up during the flight, you might want give uniflo a shot. We've found uniflo to often be a problem, creating extra air bubbles, hard to regulate.
Break in time tends to help the engines run better after a while. But usually we fly them as we set them, even new.