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Author Topic: Oil content for vintage engines?  (Read 1125 times)

Offline Ken Deboy

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Oil content for vintage engines?
« on: September 01, 2006, 01:48:54 PM »
I have a couple of vintage engines - T&L OS Max 35-S and L&J Fox 35. Recommended oil content for the T&L is at least 25% all castor and for the L&J Fox 28%. Last weekend I ran the T&L on some Powermaster GMA 10/29 and I couldn't get it all the way through a 3 oz tank. I'm no engine expert but the people helping me said most likely it was loading up due to excess oil and extinguishing the plug (OS Max 3A). I finally let them convince me to run a tank of GMA 10/22 and with the lower oil (and half synthetic) the engine ran smoothly through the whole tank. I don't really feel comfortable running less oil content than recommended by the engine builder. Should I be using a different glow plug to stay lit with the higher oil content? Will running the 10/22 damage these engines or shorten longevity? If so, by how much? By my calculation, if I mix 3 oz. of the 10/29 with 4 oz. of 10/22, I'll end up with fuel that is 25% oil, mostly castor. Is that correct? If I stick with the 10/29 should I periodically run a tank of the 10/22 through it to clean out the carbon build up everyone tells me I'm going to get if I run an all castor fuel?

thanks,
Ken
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"

Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2006, 03:11:14 PM »
The old iron/steel P&L technology generally needs all the help it can get. The Castor isn't there just for lubrication; the unburned oil carries a tremendous amount of heat out of the engine, also. When you got the L&J Fox, Larry's directions were pretty adamant about having 29% total oil, and 25% of that as Castor. He stands behind his products, but only if directions are followed (remember, he also advocates a minimum of 10% nitro, and has no problems with going to 15% if the situation warrants). Pretty much the same holds true for the T&L Max .35 - - 25% castor minimum. Email Tom if you'd like to see if his directions have changed, but he wants me to run 23% all-Castor fuel in my (his) ringed ST V.60, too!

While you probably won't ruin either engine immediately by using a lower oil content, there are other potential problems, too. A high percentage of synthetic oil can dissolve the varnish on the piston. While this sounds like a good thing, it can leave you with no compression on a well worn engine (the varnish can add considerably to the piston seal). Heck, we used to run Missile Mist in our old Fox .35s, and then wonder why the great performance didn't last . . .
(Too many irons; not enough fire)

Ralph Wenzel
AMA 495785 League City, TX

Offline wmiii

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2006, 04:43:04 PM »
I would listen to the people that did the work on the engines. While I
don't use all castor, I use a high percentage, at least 22-25% , 3-5%
syn. oil added . Parts for the .35S are difficult to come by. You will always find somebody that won't/has never used castor and is doing just fine thank you. I agree that the engines must be broken in properly

 Walter
walter menges

Offline Ken Deboy

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2006, 04:45:28 PM »
Ty,
Both engines are brand new. The first 2 bench runs on the T&L 35-S were with the 10/29. Third run was with the 10/22. All runs a fairly rich (but not slobbering) 4-cycle. Haven't run the L&J Fox yet, after the first tank of 10/22 I got nervous and decided to get some opinions before further running. I'm leaning towards sticking with the 10/29, but how to prevent it from loading up and extingishing the spark? Should I be running a hotter plug (currently OS A3)? Also is there some additive I can put in the fuel to prevent carbon build up?

thanks,
Ken
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"

Offline wmiii

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2006, 05:12:04 PM »
 The 35S is not even close to being broke in. Try a Tbolt , FoxRc,etc for breakin. I use Randy Smith's fuel addative works very well. I don't know of anything thats prevents carbon build up. I would follow Larry's
instructions for breakin on both engines. The breakin process on these
iron/steel P&L's is not a quick process, when done properly the engines will last a long time.

 Walter
walter menges

Offline Graham Collins

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2006, 05:13:08 PM »
Interesting you should ask about oil content.  This is a subject I have been mulling over for some time.  There is lots of info on the internet and a lot of that is "that's what we have also done so that is what we will do" type of thing.

If you are comfortable with the engine builders recommendations then you should go that way; they know their engines.  That is the conservative approach and there isn't anyting wrong with that.

However, I have gotten to the point where I like to challenge common convention and push the limits in one direction or another.  If you have any interest in model diesels and haven't seen this thread on RcUniverse, you might find it interesting in experiences using very low % ether or NO ether model diesel fuel with minor diversions into the question of lubrication.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4561055/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

In my search for knowledge I have been running several engines on various mixes (emperical testing) and a lot of reading on whateve I can find on these subjects. 

Recently I ran across an old (2001) control line newsletter called Linecheck. This was a shortlived newsletter published in the UK and more or less concentrated on control line racing. Issue #10 Jan 2001 has a particularily interesting bit by Andy sweetland who writes on metal tanks and oil in fuel.  Now the requirements of a team race engine and one we use for stunt or sport flying are quite different. However, engines are engines.

Here is a link to that newsletter:

http://www.noclassmac.com/Downloads/download_index.html issue #10 January 2001 Andy sweetland writes on metal tanks and oil in fuel.

Have a read, good a read.  A little hint, one fellows University thesis was based on model size engines. To summarize his results, he found that higher %'s of oil caused the engines to run hotter than lower %'s. His test where done in the mid 70's using an engine with a steel cylinder / cast iron piston (BUGL team race engine).

There you go, something to think about.

cheers, Graham in Embrun near Ottawa Canada

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2006, 07:55:35 PM »
For every Fox 35, McCoy Red Head, or OS 35S that someone "had no problems" running low oil content/low castor content with, there are 10s of thousands of those same engnies that bit the dust very early due to excessive wear.

So far I have a Fox 35 that is 43 years old and runs just fine.  I have owned it for it's entire life, and I broke it in and used 29% castor only in it.  Same with some McCoys and OS 35S that I haven't had that long.  They all have been through a long break in and no less than 25% all castor.

The Fox 35 is a very thin walled casting, and relies on castor oil and nitro to get rid of heat.  Larry Foster (L&J) has spent years testing the Foxes and working them over.  He recommends 28-29% castor and AT LEAST 15% nitro.  Nitro is an oxygenator and makes the engine use more fuel which in turn means more castor oil to remove heat.  It isn't uncommon to run in a Fox 35 for two hours on the bench.  Those engines will last more than our lifetime if the instructions are followed.  To do otherwise is at your own risk. 

And yes, Tom Lay at T&L strongly suggests to run ALL CASTOR in his engies.  Even ringed ST 46, 51, 60.  He sets up the ring for all castor.

Bill <><
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

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Offline Jim Pollock

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2006, 07:39:39 PM »
Bill, agree to the "T" about the Lay ST .51's  mine runs extremely well when I pour the Castor to it!

Jim Pollock

Offline Ken Deboy

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2006, 06:06:56 PM »
Thanks all for the advice. Today I replaced the glow plug with an RC long style, and now the engine runs fine through an entire tank of 10/29 fuel so that's what I'm going to stick with. I'm guessing the idle bar keeps oil off the glow element.

cheers,
Ken
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Oil content for vintage engines?
« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2006, 08:42:16 PM »
Hi Ken,

I add about an ounce to an ounce and a half (almost 1%) of Klottz to my gallon of 10/29 when I run "new" old engines.  Just enough of the synthetic to help keep the engine a little cleaner inside, but still all the castor they need to run correctly.  If it's a Fox 35 and has always been run on all castor, I only run a tank or so throught them of the synthetic "blend".  Too much and it just might clean up the nsides so much that the compression is gone.

Bill <><
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

Trying to get by


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