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I run my bladder fed(fairly low pressure - (sm. surg. tubing)) Big Migs through a gutted RC venturi with a spraybar through the collar with a hole that goes straight into the throat. I'll bet that one gets more fuel flow from pressure than could be forced through the TD's 3-hole sprinkler. But as for suction, yours might be a lot more user friendly, but may not develop as much power. Kind of like the difference between a Medallion and a TD. But Norvels are very efficient, making more power from less fuel than TDs, so you may end up with a great little runner. Maybe a 1/2A Stunter, since that seems to be of growing interest lately.

Regarding props, yes the MAS is under-pitched, but I like to cut them down and they fly well. An MAS 5-5.5 is tame for test flying but will sag in hard corners. A 5.25-3 works well on my Baby Streak, and a 5-3 is even better. With suction, I don't know if there might be any sag in the hard corners or not, as I've never run a Norvel on suction. For sport Combat flying, try a 4.75(Cox Rubber Duckies are great for this). The 6-3 might make that first crank easier, but I've never tried it, an I wouldn't fly a C/L plane with it. APCs are a whole 'nother set of numbers to play with. For a cramped area and 35' lines, a 6-2. On light wind days I fly planes like the Streak on 40' to 45'.On windy days I use a 5-3 and 40'.

After the first crank, the 6x3 is too big for this engine. To fly, it needs one that lets it spool up into its peak power band, and that's 5-3 territory for flying with Cox type props. Free but tight at TDC is normal for a new engine. Please search for "breaking in a Norvel"... or something like that in these forums and look for my post. It might be in someone else's thread. The NV Engines instructions are destructive... extremely so. It needs for its first 2 ounce tank to immediately run up to peak and stay there long enough to heat all the way up for the pinch and piston to mate. Back off rich for a moment and go right back to peak, and repeat till it's out of gas.

To ease the first crank, heat the cylinder and head with a heat gun... and/or, either stack 6 or so washers under the head, or use a Cox Babe Bee head with 1 or 2 washers. After the initial run, put the Norvel head back on, bolt it onto a plane,l and break it in over the next 57 flights. Like I said, look for the thread I wrote on the subject and learn all about what not to do from the NV sheets. Example: cold spinning a castor soaked new engine with a starter motor to relieve the pinch. That is Bad. Ask any metallurgist, machinist,...

Hope that helps,
Rusty

And resist the urge to dry flip it through TDC before it's been run.

Also the bushings are sometimes too tight. Sometimes the start to get grabby with time, I'm not sure why, but I've had them really start dragging... If you think they're dragging it down, polish the crank... not the bushings.
Rusty

         Rusty, I don't know if you were aware that the Cox Super Power Fuel is non-existent. They stopped making it about 2 years ago. Sadly too,  it was excellent fuel and I preferred it over Sig fuel. I sent them a lengthy e-mail in regards to it. I got the typical BS response with sorry we no longer will be stocking it.  If you recall the fellow visited the Cox forum in regards to looking for feedback and testers. I personally felt that the latest version was oily but that's what most wanted. Nonetheless, it worked terrific for every purpose I needed it for. This leaves only a few suppliers for fuel. Regardless of where it comes from the cost + shipping will cause most 1/2A flyers to go into cardiac arrest.

             Some may recall Glowplug Boy fuels, the owner sadly passed away and I believe a friend stepped up and took over the business. This fuel under the name Fitz is available on the Fitz fuel website and also Ebay.

This is a guess based on flying Cox reedies, but check out the low-pitch APC props.  A hot (two-bypass) Cox reedy really seems to like an APC 6-2 for stunt-ish flying.  It's got plenty of thrust, and doesn't go too fast.  That might not be a bad starting point for a stunt run on an 061.

This is a guess based on flying Cox reedies, but check out the low-pitch APC props.  A hot (two-bypass) Cox reedy really seems to like an APC 6-2 for stunt-ish flying.  It's got plenty of thrust, and doesn't go too fast.  That might not be a bad starting point for a stunt run on an 061.

I agree, Tim, that's the one I go to first when I want to slow the plane while still letting the engine spin up fast. I actually use the 6x2 mostly on TDs and Norvels, but probably the same sort of performance difference. Pretty good thrust too.

Dan Banjock used to make brass bushing adapters to fit the APC over the Cox 5-40 prop screw. It's better than a piece of fuel tubing until you lose the little buggers in the grass.
Rusty

...Is anyone using a pressure back plate?
Motorman

I tried one on a Czechoslovakian MP Jet .061 "Factory Race Special," and found it to be a royal pain in the ass. But I was inexperienced with the setup and maybe wasn't doing it right. Lots of RC guys use it with success.
Rusty