Bob,

Norvel recommends putting a few drops of Castor oil in the exhaust, and flipping them over about a hundred times by hand, before starting. I did that with mine, but doubt very much that it helped.

The best way to start these is with an electric starter, but they can be started by hand.

Make sure you use a smaller prop such as a 5X3 for initial starts, because these have a big bore venturi, and need to rev up fast to draw enough fuel to keep running! A drop or two of Castor in the exhaust might make it easier to flip the first few starts, but hand choking to draw fuel into the carb was all mine needed.

Use Norvel fuel made by SIG if you can find it, but I used Brodak 10 percent half A fuel, and finally got it running after a lot of aggressive flipping.

They get easier to start after a few runs, so be patient and keep flipping!

I'd recommend the Norvel 25 percent nitro fuel available from SIG, but it will run on 15 percent, with perhaps a little harder starting. Whatever you use, it's best to use the same fuel for break-in, that you intend to run.

Don't ever run a Norvel slobbering rich, as heat is what expands the cylinder enough for it to spin freely. Run it at a fast two cycle, but not quite peaked out for the first few tanks. They are almost impossible to run too lean, as they will just stop if the cylinder gets too hot, and expands enough to lose compression. Amazing little engines.

A good prop for flying is the APC 5.7X3, but a 6X2 would probably work well also. Don't use a 6X3 or larger, as these Norvels like to rev.

Your going to love your Norvel engine.

Bill

Thanks for the information but when I try to turn over the motor the thing is so tight the prop nut lostens up and it locks up at the top.

I have had success with the 100 turns by hand with good light lube and the head removed, have also had very tight norvels throw the props after starting, keep working with fast flips and it should loosen up enough to start. I would suggest pressure for an ame, have not had much success without at least muffler pressure. I only run 2 ame's right now , 1 with muffler pressure on a stunt plane and 1 with bladder on a combat ship.  They are very good engines,,  Good Luck  ,  Ray

Suggest to post a link down in the 1/2 A "building" section---might get a a few more comments.

Also there was a Norvel Faq over on RCUniverse. Here is the link.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3747976/tm.htm

"The one thing not mentioned so far is that those castor-lubed hand turns are supposed to be backwards (clockwise, from the front). I can't imagine what difference this makes, but it has worked for all of my NorVels."

Might be that clockwise will tighten vs loosen the prop screw if it binds at TDC..

The 100 flip thing works, but a heat gun and a starter is the best way. 

Too bad they dont make these anymore.  Yes the initial starts were hard, but they are tough engines.  SIG has used them at KidVenter every year, and they are used and abused for 9 days each year and just keep running.