In the olden days (pre muffler), we used to accept the idea that the engine was rich at the beginning and leaner at the end.  Now we try to do better.

Jerry, I'm still a beginner at this, but I've found that Hayes clunk tanks really work well, for me at least, on profile planes.  They are very simple to plumb, and cheap.  For Fox 35s I just run a piece of fuel line from the vent (top nipple) over the engine into the prop wash.  That seems to provide the amount of pressure that make the engine happy.  For engines that like muffler pressure, like the LA 25, I just run a line from the muffler to the tank vent nipple.  This; of course, isn't uniflow, but it seems to give me good runs (like I know what a good run is !?!).  The Hayes tanks have two nipples above the pickup outlet, and the middle one is plugged.  If you want to fill not using the engine line, just drill out the middle nipple and use it for filling, but you have to fill SLOWLY.  Just some thoughts from a neophyte.

Glen Wearden

.....Saying that, you can make it a *science experiment* if you desire!.....

Big Bear

Making your tanks removable can avoid headaches:  You don't have to make a final decision now.  You can start with what you have, as Bill suggested, see how it works, then try other tanks if you like.  If your first tank turns out to have a leak* or just won't give you a decent engine run, then you're not looking at surgery on a finished plane to remove and replace it.  Also, allowing for tank adjustment up and down if the engine speed changes when the plane is inverted or in outside maneuvers is helpful once you get beyond the first stage of remastering basic flight. 

*It's always a good idea to pressure-test your tanks for leaks: Plug all vents except one, attach an empty fuel syringe to the open vent, dunk the tank in a bowl of water, lean on the syringe and look for air bubbles forced out any holes in the tank.  (No water gets sucked into the tank).

Hope this helps,
Happy flying and welcome back!