Since you are not concerned with saving the bearing, heat the case up again and give it a tap on the inner race with a soft drift of some kind. A solid tap onto a piece of wood ought to do it also once you have the case heated enough. If old castor is glueing it to the case, it may take repeated heating and soaking with PB-Blaster until it soaks the castor oil soft again. I'm surprised the crock pot trick did not get it loose. Maybe try that again.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

I hit it pretty good with a heat gun, but I don't know the temperature.  As you said, I banged it on a wood block.  I kept the backplate screwed-on to protect the back edge of the case.

I did the crock pot for two days.  That's good for external dried oil, but maybe not a fused-in bearing. 

I have it soaking a acetone overnight.

This engine seems to have  vibration issue that can't be cured by prop balancing or bolt tightening.  The front bearing came loose, but I had the back edge to press against.

 Use vise grips on a mounting lug.

This says it all

   A monokote heat gun gets to 400 degrees, and is most definitely hot enough to heat the case to release a undamaged bearing.  The aluminum isn't very thick, and has a lot of "structure" around it that will not allow it to expand very much, a few tenths at most, but that should be enough to release a normal bearing. There is no danger of over heating. Heating the case to anything near 300 degrees either in an oven or with a heat gun heats the whole case, and should not expand an outer race  that is not damaged. Spot heating with a propane torch could over heat the case, which will be hard to tell, and then grabbing the mounting tab and hammering it against a block of wood raises the possibility of damaging the case. The aluminum adjacent to the mounts would bend in a heart beat. To handle hot cases, I use welding gloves or a thick rag. Tapping the back of the case against a smooth, wooden block should not damage anything at these temps. What might be going on here is a cracked out race. The spring effect of the race would really wedge the bearing in place. One thing else to try that may take two people. If there is any kind of seal or shield on the bearing, pick it off with an o-ring pick or something like that. See how much room between bearings to see it a sharp music wire hook can securely grab the bearing. Make the wire hook long enough so that you can securely grab it with a pair of vice grips.   Test how it grabs several times before trying it with heat. When the case is hot enough, have some one hold it with some gloves, while you try pulling on the hook, and maybe even tapping on the jaws of the vice grips with a small hammer. You want to create a pulling motion. I have a home made slide hammer type puller like this in my work toolbox for such things on machinery. You just have to make up something similar in a scale to do what you need to do. After a number of repeated heating and cooling cycles I would think that it would eventually pop out, unless, like I mentioned, the out race is cracked. Beyond this, I would have to have the engine in my hand to figure out anything else.
    Keep us posted,
  Dan McEntee

It looks like I have three FS-R's which could be as old as 1977.   I see that Boca has not just one, but FIVE levels of bearing to chose from. 

Hopefully, a set of bearings will cure some of my problems with these otherwise fine engines.

This is the first time I've looked at Boca.  I found the site, found the bearing, and ordered it in under 30 seconds.  This is THE BEST sales web site I've ever used.  Zero hassle.   Other web jockeys need to copy them.

Excellent tool Paul.
I agree with you on the Boca site. They are really easy to work with!

as a last resort on an engine that i couldn't get the rear bearing out of .i took a Dremmel  with a 1/8 square burr.came through the front and made 2 small slots up against the bearing then using a small punch tapped the bearing and it came right out. cleaned any burs from the slots and good to go.

   When changing bearings in my OPS .40s the local machinists told me to set it in the oven at a higher temp than I normally would,,,, guess what? Mike Haverly was right it worked. It just fell out.
  John L.