I have tried to clean old engines many times with pretty poor results. I recently decided to try to clean up 3 old Fox stint engines. Typical mediocre results. I read in the December Model Aviation magazine that you could use Dawn Power Dissolver. I was skeptical but I gave it a try. Unbelievable

"Dawn Power Disolver"


           Well, I saw this written up in the Dec. MA so I thought I'd give it a try. I had a twenty year old FP .40 around that had been rebuilt a couple of times that was pretty kruddy. I don't clean a whole bunch of engines so I haven't been willing to invest in a crock pot set up.

First of all I had a hard time finding the DAWN POWER DISOLVER. It is supposed to be carried in the super markets with other DAWN products. Not in Publix, or Sweetbay (Florida) stores. Finally got some at Albertsons. About 3 dollars and change. Cheap, if it works!

Welllllll...Yes it did get most of the burned gunk off after an hour of squirting and soaking and scrubbing with a stiff tooth brush. It did need a second bath to get it all off. It didn't get the burned oil stains off that gather around the exhaust stack and the muffler. It also darkened the cleaner areas of the engine and left some black splotches behind.

If your need is to get caked gunk off your engines, this will work. But if you want to get your engines pretty again, I can't recommend POWER DISOLVER.


Somehow there is a conflict here.
Dennis

I have been scouting grocery stores and others and cant find Dawn Power Disolver. Where did you find it. Know one seems to have seen this product in the Cleveland area.
Thanks
Wayne
 

My wife told me she bought the first bottle at Wal Marts. It was in the dish washing soap area. I bought a bottle yesterday from a grocery store IGA affiliate. Dont know if they have them in your area  or not. You might go to the Procter and Gamble website and I think they have a section that tells who sells the various products.

First off Dennis, if you are going to "borrow" someone elses post I would think it would be curteous to give the original post  credit. See Ward-o's post in PRODUCT REVIEWS.

And lastly, here is the picture of my FP .40 after several hours or more of soaking and scrubbing. Perhaps it has something to do with alloys or....

Ward

Ward
Actually the credit was given as posted in SSW. I had not seen your review here at the time of my reply  the credit and banner was edited out but not by myself. I'm not about to argue with the moderators right to edit any post he wishes to.. The point of the remark was to say that you cannot give a sparkling endorsement in one post and write a less then sparkling review of the product. It does make the remarks somewhat ambiguous.
 I don't think we need to take this any further. Especially since the product is not about to change the world in any appreciable way.
Dennis

And lastly, here is the picture of my FP .40 after several hours or more of soaking and scrubbing. Perhaps it has something to do with alloys or....

Ward

Ward, your results look just like what I got using a bit of dishwasher detergent in water.  I guess aluminum alloys are very sensitive as to exactly which material/alloy they are and how the parts are manufactured.  I'd stick with antifreeze in a crock pot.  May take longer, but the antifreeze is made to be compatible with aluminum, since every modern engine has aluminum somewhere in it where it gets exposed to AF.

A word of caution  The crock pot  method  can make the engine  look just like  Ward's

I have seen  many  very badly oxidized  by crock cooking

I have als seen great results , and  terrible  results  with Crock pot cooking.
Also it will  destroy  any Bearing seals  or  Venturie  O rings  so, those  saying  put the engine in whole  without dissasembly  may  suffer  bad  result s there  too.

It is  also  much better  to  only use  pure  anti-freeze   with  zero  water  in it.



Regards
Randy