First, sorry to disappoint anyone, but please make sure that you are on the correct forum.

 Seriously, I've just taken possession of a slightly used McCoy .35 Redhead that I plan to use for an upcoming (next) project. It seems to have very little time on it and I want to optimize my use of it, and it's life. I haven't personally setup and run any Mccoys before. I'm intending to use it on a "Super Combat Streak" that I just purchased from Walter Umland.

 Without getting overly elaborate, I'd like to hear some general suggestions on running and setup combos and minor mods that would prolong engine life and performance. One mod I've heard of is to drill a small lubricating hole in the rod end at the crank. If done, common sense would dictate angling that hole slightly to "scoop" lubrication toward the crank lug while the engine is running. Any suggestions on this, or any other mods or setup combos will be appreciated.

 Thanks!

 Thanks Jim. I did plan on running 10% with at least 20-25 percent all castor, maybe I'll add a little more even. I don't really anticipate having to do it, but just in case, exactly where and how do you go about tapping on the piston with a hammer? I can't say I've ever heard of that one.

The safest way is to remove the piston and cyl. and set them on an anvil with the piston right side up in the bottom of the cyl.. Then take a wide (1/4") punch, and using a small hammer, lightly tap the dome of the piston right in the middle. It will spread the top of the piston enough to get good compression again. I sometimes take the piston out and mic it, then just set the piston alone on the anvil, and tap it a few times with the hammer. I then mic it again, and I do this until it has grown about .001" to .0015". If you go to far you will have to lap it back in again. The pistons are sintered iron, and can be broken if you are not careful. It just takes light taps with the hammer. I have done this to all of my McCoy 35's at least once, and to my 40's, 3 or 4 times. Travel at your own risk.

        In the event you need to take the cylinder off, I found a way that has worked well for me. I apply 3n1 oil liberally at the bottom of the cylinder where it meets the case. I then let it soak for about an hour checking to see that it runs all the way around. I then take the heat gun and heat the cylinder and case connection while holding it with a glove. I do this until it smokes . I then place it in the vise and give the cylinder a bit of a twist not pulling until it breaks free. The cylinder then comes out without damaging the gasket. I've done this several times with good success. The heat gun I use is the type for paint stripping so it does get very hot. Just thought I'd mention this if it wasn't already known. The one problem I run into with these engines is not only the disintegrating piston but the wrist pin holes look like ovals. I'm not quite equipped to fix that problem. Ken