Hi All:

       What is a J-23 hone?

       Is a brake cylinder hone a good choice for honing cylinders in our engines?

       Who does this type of work?


                                                                                                                                    Tia,

                                                                                                                                    Frank McCune

I know of one guy in Texas who does this. I will not say who, even if asked via PM. It's not my place to say. But my point is, Brett is correct about the tooling. It's NOT something you can just buy. He chromes the cylinder and then hones them. The workmanship is amazing but if you calculate the time he invests in each set, there's no way at all he could sell them for any type of profit and make them affordable.

Look at Brian Gardner's stuff. Amazing work, and the price reflects the labor involved. That's why he has a minimum number of pre-orders to make a run.

Frank Bowman recommended roughing up the cylinder with a brake hone or by hand when putting in his new rings. Clarence Lee recommended wet or dry sand paper and oil by hand. What ever works. As Brett said, do not remove any metal, just rough it up to help the new rings seat. Nothing you do to a lapped piston will help except some cast iron pistons can be grown with heat from a propane torch and dropped into a can of motor oil. Works great on Super Cyclones and Forster 29's.

Brett beat me to it with his diplomatic words.

   I feel more than a little responsible for several incidents with brake cylinder hones, because while I didn't invent the idea, I may have been the first person to mention it on the internet. Then I find people who ground up their 45FSRs using the premise "if a little's good, 25 minutes at 8000 rpm is better".

   There's really almost NOTHING that even very capable modelers can usefully do to a factory ABC/AAC/ABN liner to make it better,  and trying to do so will almost certainly ruin it, as I have seen over and over again.

    Brett

 R%%%%Whadaya want the HONE for ; is to BUST THE GLAZE . Fitting a new ring , or maybe if the rig WONT SEAT .

The theory is the ring floats on a overly smooth bore , & requires a ' interface ' to mate succesfully .
Back in Noahs day , ' The New ' Chomed RINGS for Norton Commandos were HARD FACED , The Cycle would burn oil
for 2.000 miles ; Then Stop . The RING had ' seated ' , took that long for the Hard Ring to wear in to the cylinder .

No doubt a chome bore & iron ring would take a while to seat , also .

Typical DOUBLE CROSS HATCH - HONE to ' bust glaze ' even on a new cylinder , is what on a RINGED ENGINE the ' HONE ' is required for ,



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Tho weve seen the bloke who tooned Lagans fastest at W.C.s F.F. Rossi , ' relive ' a cylinder / adjust taper , in a few twists of a Brake Hone .
This is on a lapped piston .15 , and No More than SIX light turns thru bore , was utilised .

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Thisisabout the only one I can find that dosnt apear to me to be grossly overdone . Maybe 320 or 400 Wt wet & dry paper on a Dowel ,
But it should be held aligned in the palm ? ? , and only a few rotateing passes . Most Bores ( FOX ) ARNT HARDENED .

This is talking about a 40 or 60 ringed motor , to DE-GLAZE , or to clean up a bore for cheapskates peasants & destitudes .
Decadent rissoles can afford to replace them .  Practise makes perfect .

The Bro's CR 250 M got new rings every second M-X meeting , a light brush through with wet & dry if contaminated / lacquered .

Another important consideration is to CLEAN the swine adequately .

The General Theory being the White Rag , a paper towel should come out CLEAN after wipeing it ,
while the rag get dirt on it wiping the bore, Its NOT CLEAN . We want no Grit Reside / contamination .

So cleanliness & a bit of common sense is wot works . Practise on some scrap might be adviseable .


Though these new fangled things may be used for that .

or One is Removing the ' Tram Lines ' ! .



AND : Beschädigter Zylinder - vor und nach der Bearbeitung

You should not be using ringed engines any more, unless for nostalgia purposes, which will faithfully recreate the days of screwing around with engines in fields hoping to get one decent flight in a weekend.

What a crock of S***.

Do you have to fiddle with the rings of your car every 1000 miles?
As I said, if it’s well made with good materials & tolerances, there is no issues.
Don’t base your opinions on bad experiences with some old crap. L