You need some one that is good with a TIG welder and has access to a machine shop to make mandrels and such for doing a build up weld where you need it. Don't try welding the ear back on a such, cut away the small pieces and weld on a slug of new aluminum. Work it down with a file by hand and if possible finish off in a mill. I have fixed worse than that, including putting a whole new left side and mount on a Brodak .40 that you could see the crank counter weight and rod through the hole. Just takes time and technique and patience. Some times it's not worth it but I have fixed engines just to see if I could. All have run well afterwards. The engine needs to be stripped completely down and cleaned as well as possible. gentle heating with the TIG torch and repeated heating and cleaning with wire brush gets all the oil boiled out of the metal. It would take me the rest of the night to detail the procedure but it is possible.
  Good luck and have fun,
   Dan McEntee

file:///F:/Downloads/silver%20fox%20mods%201.pdf

file:///F:/Downloads/silver%20fox%20mods%202.pdf

Fox 40 stunt rework . Lew Wollard .

Hello
In the good old days the mufflers were so flimsy they would break and leave the motor undamaged so I had a lot of broken Fox mufflers generally the ones that wrapped around the exhaust stack (stack survived fine). Have a few of the C case Fox 40's too but will only use a strap on muffler if going on a profile or combat wing (Tatone Peace Pipe 40 to 60 size fits well)
Fox 40 C frames come up all the time on Ebay with worn out RC motors able to provide a very cheap case.

Regards Gerald

             This is quite common with these engines. Scott Dinger of Simi Valley California is the welder you seek. Scott has a busy schedule and I believe he's a member on here to find his info. However, the problem at hand here is the quality of metal used on Fox engines. There's so many porosities in that casting that he will more than likely forego repairing it with Tig. The problem is that when you try and weld it, it will blow a large hole in it. He has explained this to me many times in regards to this and he's familiar with what manufacturers are better than others. It doesn't hurt to ask, but I wouldn't be offended if he doesn't want to touch it. He generally does a test area some where else to check.

A # 213 Du-Bro 6" Exhaust Ext  and JB Weld can save a Fox Muffler or make a tongue muffler.

Wow!  That's kool!!  Never though of this type configuration.  But it's kool to see!

Mecoa has some Fox .40 crankases listed

One thing about tongue mufflers that has always irked me is that they could easily be made to bolt on vertically, so the carcass of the muffler aligns with the cylinder and thus tucks out of the way to a large extent. The actual exhaust outlet would ideally be on the end next to the head, facing away from the head. Nice thing about this layout would be that there would be much less leverage and resulting crash damage. Would look kinda cool, I think, and would be a natural for such a repair and/or strap mounting.

In the R/C world, there are companies that make "Pitts Style" mufflers, which are a similar arrangement but more of a tube muffler. One of the brands I recall was "Bisson". This one fits OS .35/.40FP and .40/.46LA:  http://www.bissonmufflers.com/en/muffler.html?mufflers::listing_id=114044      Steve