Dennis,
It all depends on what you need. For a ST60 that will not turn up that fast and probably will be run with lots of oil going thru it (at least the rear bearing), and should not get that hot due to the way people run a ST60 for stunt, the materials choices are simply not that critical.
52100 Chrome steel is a standard for the bearing industry. If you do not have problems with corrosion (and you don't with a stunt motor that is getting dosed with castor oil) it will perform better at lower cost than the stainless bearings.
Practically any ball cage (ball retainer) will work as long as it is properly manufactured and installed. This could be a brass cage, or a steel cage or.... The ST60 rpm is not very fast which is why you are using it. If you had an engine that was turning 20,000+ rpm, you would be more interested in a lighter weight, higher damped one piece non-metallic cage.
Some of the synthetic oil bases used in industry will attack some of the non-metallic retainers. Oils you are going to use in a ST60 should not cause concerns.
Absolutely do not use shields or seals in the main bearing. These will prevent proper lubrication. I'd be surprised if any BOCA sets for model engines would give you a main bearing with these. (But if you are buying your own individual part numbers...now you have to take care of this detail.) If you worry about fuel leakage out the front of the engine, get a front bearing with one seal and put that on the outside. The crank to case fit near the front of the engine is what is supposed to control the leakage out the front. The tiny extra amount of drag caused by a seal on a stunt motor that is operating well below its power potential is of zero consequence.
A C3 fit is generally a starting point and is commonly stocked. That much clearance should work fine in a ST60 as far as I know--although I have not replaced bearings in an ST60 myself.
Probably more important than buying bearings with more "zoot" is getting them installed so that they are seated, free, and not damaged during the process, or contaminated. For example, never apply installation loads "across the balls." When done and the assembly is cooled, check for endplay. Ideally, there would be none when checked with a dial indicator. Then, after you run the engine, check it again. If at any time you can feel the balls, you are set up too tight. Either the case/crank dimensions have caused you to duplex the pair too tight, or the radial clearance wasn't sufficient. These are directly related, and not independent. Go look for a diagram showing contact angles to understand how.
Hope these comments help a bit,
Dave