I'd like to replace the spring needles on my 25, 35, and 40fp engines with a solid stem type. Sometimes the spring makes it hard to tell if you're turning the needle or just the spring hidden inside of a cowl. And sometimes the knob turns inside the spring.

So, anybody ever heard of a solid stemmed replacement that fits the stock spraybar?
Rusty

This isn't a direct answer to your question, but I have remedied that same OS needle problem by applying JB Weld to both ends of the spring to tie it to the knurled knob and the body of the needle with the inside-threaded drum. It may not be elegant but it works.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.
I think I'll chop the spring under the knob and stack some tube to fit a 3/32 wire stem, and JB or solder it all in place.

Rusty

Personally, I don't like the OS NV assemblies and would heave them out in a heartbeat. Randy Aero's are the best!  Steve

Reach in adjust needle at click nob. Cowled motor probably won't let you do that however. Adjust clip so that you can feel adjustment through spring. Hit it right and needle will click adjust without overturning. 


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Reach in adjust needle at click nob. Cowled motor probably won't let you do that however. Adjust clip so that you can feel adjustment through spring. Hit it right and needle will click adjust without overturning. 

Hi Dennis, this is on a Nobler ARF. It's stiff to turn because I have a collar of silicon fuel line sealing the base of the needle and spraybar. Maybe that's not necessary. I talked with Ken about it too, and his concern is about the tuning fork effect of a solid stem wearing on the threads. Seems it's happened a few times. Just recently I had that happen to a pair of long Cox needles too. After considering all of the above, I think I'll just solder the base to the spring and JB Weld the aluminum knob on top of the spring. Doesn't look cool, but it'll work dependably.
Thanks for the tips and ideas.
Rusty.