AAAARRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH .
WOTITS DOING IS >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> .........................................
The Wrist Pin is STICKING in the CONROD .
Really , Ideally , you LEAVE THE LINER in the case & lift till its just clear of the access hole . in rear . So the pistons supported, Maintains alignment - support - & squareness .
HOWEVER , a HEAT GUN is virtually a prerequisttte . Give a T or Two . UP in under through the bottom , to heat the ROD LITTLE END ( and Piston . Not to mention the C R C , Solvent etc .
usually you find the castors set like glue , IN the little end / wrist pin interface . Hence the term SOLVENT . Leave overnight inverted with piston fulloff acetone . or brake cleaner .
IFITS STUBBORN , you pull the liner , set a pair of spruce 1/8 sq ea side of pin , fwd . AND PUNCH the pin FORWARD to FREE IT . Then cautiously lever the piston fwd . a brace across above the lever will see its not putting force AT THE CROWN , where it'd screw up the ring land and top sealing edge .A really stubborn one youll have to back & fwd it , Dosing with CRC & the heat gun , till VOLIA it pops free .
Thus a ultra sonic cleaner or safe for alloy HOT TANK at a Engine Shop , could save a lot of grief , stuffing around , and banishment for the odde inappropriate comment or word .
A engine reco shop'd probly be happy to throw it in their tank overnight , or a mag wheel cleaners ?? , removeing the dried castor GLUE where its set the pin to rod .
Also , you wanna see your NOT getting the rod off square & skewed , with all this levering ,as itll jam worse .
A allen key or bent wire , accessing inside under piston , to move piston fore & aft on the rod/pin , is kinda the FIRST STEP , then heat cycle & CRC / WD 40 when hot .
A clear & undistracted state of mind dosnt do any harm, either . Al9ong with a clean bench and a sheet of paper or three . Paper towels , tweezers etc .
Easy to breaK A DRILLIN THREAD TAP IN THE ALLOY PADS , OR PULL THE PAD LEAVING THE PIN STILL IN THERE , TOO . . . .