I have an old "Combat Streak" which I am rebuilding.  It had the engine area broken off.  I now have a tank compartment and I bought a stunt tank exactly like the one which I took out of the old tank compartment.  It was a wedge tank with the out feed line coming out of the top of the tank.  I could use this new tank.  It apparently worked before.

However,  I also have a 4 oz. clunk tank which I used on a Tutor II and Super Tigre 51.  It wasn't big enough for that application.  It would fit in this tank compartment.  However, it is rectangular in shape.  On the Tutor II the wider dimension was vertical against the side of the fuselage.  On the combat streak the tank would be laying flat and the clunk end would have to go out to outside extremity of the tank in a flat position.

Question #1  Would this work well?            In some ways I like these tanks better than metal ones.

I'm aware that I will have to change the orientation of the breathing tube inside so it is turned up to fit the new configuration.

Question #2   If I use the tank like the original,  how do I orient the needle valve venturi in relation to the tank for a good run?   Does it need to be level with the back corner of the tank where the out flow orients from or with the brass tube where it comes out of the top of the tank.

I'm planning to use a McCoy 35.

Thanks for you help.

Allen Eshleman

Save tourself the troubles of a metal tank in a combat plane , install a bladder tube a nd go trouble free after you learn to handle a bladder. If there is no trash in the fuel you get the same run thru the entire flight except for a few rich laps at the end and then a lean cut off when the bladder no longer has any pressure.
You can of course run the metal tank and I would strongly suggest it be set up as a uniflow,but it will be no where as trouble free as a bladder and cheaper also.
It probably cost me about 20 to 25 cents apiece for bladders.
Busby