I read the instructions carefully and I have the engine ready for break in. I tried the conrod on the crank and it fit well but when I went to assemble the engine I had trouble getting the rod to slide on the crank. I followed Brian`s instructions and with 1200grit sand paper I polished the tip of the crankpin then I had to ream the bushing on the rod to get it to go on the crank. I used a drill bit with a piece of 1200 sand paper per instructions. Using a piece of scotch tape I taped a piece of 1200 grit to the drill bit the I wrapped the sand paper on the bit until it was bigger than the hole on the rod. Using a pair of scissors i started cutting pieces of sandpaper until it slid in a little bit tight then I twisted the drill carefully to remove a little bit of the brass bushing. It took me a couple of times before I was able to get the rod on the crank using the technique in the instructions. I`m using a .282 inch venturi and a PA needle valve. Here are some pics.
                                                                                                                                                                                           Juan

Juan     If the rod fit on the crank pin before assembling the motor then the bearing in the rod was the correct size. You said the rod would not go over the crank pin when putting the motor together. There are two things that can cause that. The wrist pin boses are not wide enough and are restricting the rod from moving back. The second could be the bearing in the rod was not put in straight. The piston boss problem was common on the first batch of ST/46 and ST/35 parts that Brian made. I had the very first 46 and 35 parts. On some motors the rod wore a grove in it from hitting the piston posses. Brian used my 35 motor to make the new parts but this slipped by his inspection as it is not something one would expect to find.
Ed

  Hello Eddy
                     The rod didn`t fit due to the angle at which it is when the piston is inside the crankcase. The space between pin bosses is less than the space in the factory piston. Brian chose to retain the piston pin with circlips which makes the space for the pin and the pin smaller and that is why the rod bosses are wider than on the stock piston which in turn makes installing the rod on the crank harder in an engine with a new crankshaft since the rod won`t slide as far back in the piston. He made the bottom bushing on the rod with a smaller diameter hole to help the engines that might have crankpin wear. It was not hard to ream the bushing. I ran my engine 10 times today in short runs to heat cycle the engine. I took the backplate off after that and everything looks good. The engine ran right away with a few drops of fuel on the intake and sounded great. I let it cool off about ten to fifteen minutes between runs. The engine still tight fuel used is 5/22 my own mix using VP products,Blendzall and Klotz. In all I`m happy with the set from Brian.
juan

All below by Juan is correct.

Some engines are easier to get the rod on than others.

You can help by putting a very slight lead on the crankpin on the inboard side, or to say it another way - picture the crank with the pin at tdc. You put the lead/radius on the underside. It doesn't need much at all and it will slip on as you rock/twist the crank gently back and forth. I wanted as much bearing area in the piston bosses we could get away with to give long service life.

  Hello Eddy
                     The rod didn`t fit due to the angle at which it is when the piston is inside the crankcase. The space between pin bosses is less than the space in the factory piston. Brian chose to retain the piston pin with circlips which makes the space for the pin and the pin smaller and that is why the rod bosses are wider than on the stock piston which in turn makes installing the rod on the crank harder in an engine with a new crankshaft since the rod won`t slide as far back in the piston. He made the bottom bushing on the rod with a smaller diameter hole to help the engines that might have crankpin wear. It was not hard to ream the bushing. I ran my engine 10 times today in short runs to heat cycle the engine. I took the backplate off after that and everything looks good. The engine ran right away with a few drops of fuel on the intake and sounded great. I let it cool off about ten to fifteen minutes between runs. The engine still tight fuel used is 5/22 my own mix using VP products,Blendzall and Klotz. In all I`m happy with the set from Brian.
juan