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Author Topic: B-40 muffler - set up for pressure  (Read 429 times)

Offline Allen Eshleman

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B-40 muffler - set up for pressure
« on: August 19, 2009, 02:03:54 PM »
Hi,

     I'm having my first experience with a Brodak 40. I ran it in, at least as far as the short 20 runs and have 3 flights on
it.  It does a 4-2.  However, I have it coupled with a conventional tank.  I would like to hook it to a clunk tank with pressure.  How can this be done.  I see the bolt down through the middle.  Does it have anything to do with that?

Thanks for any help.

Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

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Re: B-40 muffler - set up for pressure
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2009, 04:16:41 PM »
About the only way to adapt the stock muffler to pressure is to drill and tap the stack. If there's enough thread sticking out, add a nut to reduce strain on the threads.

I think it's better (easier) to get an after-market muffler with the pressure tap already installed from Scott Dinger or Scott Riese; both of whom make excellent products.

(Too many irons; not enough fire)

Ralph Wenzel
AMA 495785 League City, TX

Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: B-40 muffler - set up for pressure
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2009, 06:40:18 AM »
Drilling and taping the stock muffler is really easy. If you have a half way good hobby shop close, you should be able to pick up a pressure fitting and a Higgley tap and drill set for 4-40 or 6-32 just match the threads on the fitting when you buy it. If you already have drills and taps you are ahead of the game.

Drill the flat part (stack) just before it opens up into the chamber and use a little oil when you tap the hole. Clean it up with alcohol or acetone to remove the oil and use a dab of lock-tite on the fitting when you install it. The lock-tite will seal the threads and keep the fitting from vibrating loose. Takes more time to explain that to actually do it.

Plumbing the tank is a whole nuther subject and you have several choices. Might do a search on "uniflow clunk tank plumbing" and look at the different ideas posted. The way I do it is to solder a wire loop to the clunk that lets the uniflow tube free float with the clunk. This makes the assembly much more flexable than some of the other methods I've seen.


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