Hi all, after reading the BB fp .20 tune up article, a mate of mine has scratch built a flite streak to try out an ABN fp .20 as he has a very fresh one that he got cheap.
My question is probably aimed towards Brett or Dan.
Would the ABN FP .15 achieve similar results in regards to power delivery? I have a brand new one that performs well in Peter Millers "stupid cupid" design, the model flies better corners than I thought a .15 size model ever could but has a tank problem, requiring that the model be opened up to rectify it.
I saw a GMA "peace maker" (36" span profile) fly a killer pattern recently with an old O.S max 3 .15 and wondered if a stock FP .15 ABN on a peace maker would give similar results to what you have obtained with the FP .20/ flite streak albeit in miniture?
Thanks, Rob.

Hi all, after reading the BB fp .20 tune up article, a mate of mine has scratch built a flite streak to try out an ABN fp .20 as he has a very fresh one that he got cheap.
My question is probably aimed towards Brett or Dan.
Would the ABN FP .15 achieve similar results in regards to power delivery? I have a brand new one that performs well in Peter Millers "stupid cupid" design, the model flies better corners than I thought a .15 size model ever could but has a tank problem, requiring that the model be opened up to rectify it.
I saw a GMA "peace maker" (36" span profile) fly a killer pattern recently with an old O.S max 3 .15 and wondered if a stock FP .15 ABN on a peace maker would give similar results to what you have obtained with the FP .20/ flite streak albeit in miniture?

     The quickest and probably most correct answer is "I don't know".  I have run the 15 a little bit, and I was pretty happy with the way it ran, but in my case I was flying an airplane that was a little too large for it. Same 30-sh ounce Skyray 35 as I was using with the 20 (and 25, and McCoy 19 rr, and Veco 19, and....). It flew, it made it through acceptable patterns in reasonable air, but it didn't have the kind of authority the airplane needed. It probably flew better, in most respects, than with a Fox 35 and certainly is a much nicer motor to deal with.

    I would say it's the engine of choice for the Ringmaster - the 20 is pretty tough to keep subsonic with commonly available props.  Seeing a kit Ringmaster (with full opaque painted finish) fly with a 15FP in about 1993-4 was what got me kicked off on the entire experiment. It was *much, much* better than with a Fox.

    But I didn't really run it enough to tell if it had the same perfect run as the 20. It was certainly good enough to leave me pretty confident that with the right sized airplane it would be perfectly acceptable. I wouldn't too concerned over building an airplane around it. It will run.

      For props I would look at the 8-4, 8-5, and 9-4 APC. I think the B-17 flew with depitched 9-4s for a while. The aforementioned Ringmaster was running a 9-5 Master Airscrew, as I recall, but based on my limited experience I would think the APC would be a much better choice. You can try any prop you want, you cannot burn it up. If it's wrong it will just fly badly.

    Brett
   

I'd also like to build a ring master as I have never seen one before here in Australia. 

     And you want to corrupt paradise??   Truth be told, for the most part, the Ringmaster is not a very good-flying model. Definitely one of the worst-flying stunt models that are commonly built (along with some of it's Sterling brothers, like the Yak 9 and the Mustang, and the similarly-conceived Flying Clown). It was probably state of the art the week it was designed, but that week was ~60 years ago while the event was undergoing it's most rapid phase of development.

    It's just OK if you build it light (but not too light, since it will come apart if you just remove mass from the existing structure) and have exactly the right kind of power, set up the controls properly, and don't get too aggressive. Yes, David Fitzgerald can use one to finish in the Top 10 in VSC Classic, but most of us aren't David Fitzgerald.

    They are built a lot now primarily because they were built a lot in the good old days and people want to relive the past. That's fine, no problem, there's nothing wrong with enjoying one's self.  If you don't expect too much, and use the very extensive database of experience on how to set them up, and the right engine, it will fly moderately OK.

     Brett

  Thanks Brett, decision is pretty clear now. I think I'll build the peace maker.
Hopefully I'll end up with something remotely resembling a mini "dirt mobile".
I'll also put the "feelers" out for an FP.20 as I think there is real merit in a hot performing model with low emotional attatchment.
   Rob.

Good choice with the Peacemaker!

As to the FP 20............. GET ONE, and run it EXACTLY like Brett suggests.  No changes, no mods, EXACTLY like he suggests.  If you're not happy eith it, let me know and I'll buy it. 

Bill <><

 Hi Steve, I couldn't believe how quiet the little FP's are, that was the main motivation for building models for it.
 Other than 1/2A combat models I hadn't built sub .35 size planes in years.
 The beauty of it is I can fly on the soccer field around the corner from home without disturbing anyone.
I work a 4day on 4day off roster so I tend to fly there during the week, there is houses across the road and a high school (my old high school!) about 150 yards further up. I used to fly my old Ramrod (merco .35 power) there occasionally but it wasn't too often as it cackles (music) a bit with it's home made tounge muffler.
Never had any complaints, but I haven't wanted to stir up local council as they aren't known for their sense of humour.
(But then again you should see our latest rates notice.. Doh!)
Rob.

Hi Jim I'll be sure to let you know how I get on with the MVVS.49.
 At the moment I've only got 1 model that it fits in and current repairs are going to put the weight over the top I believe. I bought it second hand, it had a fairly light finish on it but construction wise it is too heavy. Not much I can do about that really so I intend to do a "rough but honest" paint job just to get it back into the air. I'm currently building a profile for my LA.46, wing/fuse and stab are done will probably frame it up tomorrow before I go to work. Plan is to have it finished within the next 2 weeks and start on a competitive model for the .49. I'll have to get cracking because I haven't really got anything decent flying at the moment. Was planning on flying some comps in Melbourne this year but just haven't been organised, so may have to wait until next year. Anyway in regards to the MVVS's I'll keep you posted and would be keen to hear how you get on with yours.
Thanks, Rob.

The Ringmaster is an eccentric tradition in our club. There are lots of them flown. Few are built by us. Most are bought at swap meets for $10 or less. Many are covered in multiple reject monokote colors, anything left over. These are competition stunters by the way. Often used in Old Time at local contests and Brodak. Engine of choice is a Fox35, bought cheap and used. They're flown in multi fly where three of us are up there together playing follow the leader. A few of our pilots use them in three line, where a line is connected to the tail end of the fuse. Pulling the tail towards the inside of the circle allows the plane to slow down, hover, and do flip flops. Palko and Banjok do it together. A rag tag sinc fly. Amazing and hillarious. Our Ringmasters have won in Old Time and frequently place well. Even won at Brodak I believe. I know Jack Weston came in 2nd there, using one of the best of the breed, many colors of scrap kote... plus a few tricks in construction. Didn't do much this year, however, maybe because we left the chicken bone off. A club member flew our most funky example to a mid pack finish in Intermediate Classic. Never having competed before. The Old Time pattern, with it's predominance of large round maneuvers shows the plane off at it's best.