I am About to finish a Lil' Hacker from Corehouse and was considering either a tee dee .049 or a norvel ame .049. Fuel supply will be pressure bladder type. Any thoughts, preferences or experiences with this airplane or these engines mounted on these planes?  Thanks,  NC   Ray. 

A good (real good) TD will spin a 5-3 prop at perhaps 22K on 20% Nitro. An AME will get 23 - 25K on a 5-3 APC toothpick, on the same fuel. This with both engines equipped with the Galbreath head and Nelson HD plug. In the air, there's probably not as much difference in rpm.

The Galbreath/Nelson plug head doesn't(I don't think) produce a lot more power than either the Cox glow heads or the Norvel plugs.  It's just much more readily available, esp. now that Norvel is out of the engine business.  Nelson plugs are relatively cheap, last well, and are made locally.  All around a good deal.  Nothing wrong with the Cox heads, if they are still being made and you can find them, except the price.

Isky,
For general sport flying the props from george cleveland have been very good.This is for an AME.
Dennis

If you use the AME watch out for the "tight shaft" problems Larry Driskill talked about a couple years ago.  Symptoms are when you start the motor and warm it up it will hold a good setting for 30 seconds or so, just enough time to get in the air, then start to go overlean.  If the plane is still on the ground you can richen it up back to a good setting, then it will go lean again after 30 seconds or so.  Finally when you richen it up it cools off and quits rich.  It behaves a lot like too touchy a needle valve and/or a bladder that is not feeding a steady pressure.  The cure is to polish the shaft with really fine wet or dry paper until the motor runs freely.

If you use the AME watch out for the "tight shaft" problems Larry Driskill talked about a couple years ago.  Symptoms are when you start the motor and warm it up it will hold a good setting for 30 seconds or so, just enough time to get in the air, then start to go overlean.  If the plane is still on the ground you can richen it up back to a good setting, then it will go lean again after 30 seconds or so.  Finally when you richen it up it cools off and quits rich.  It behaves a lot like too touchy a needle valve and/or a bladder that is not feeding a steady pressure.  The cure is to polish the shaft with really fine wet or dry paper until the motor runs freely.

I wonder if this isn't what is happening to that AP .06 I have... It is an evaluation engine from Singapore Hobbies, have to send it back, so I'm not going to try the polishing thing, but based on Larry Renger's tests, these engines (at least, some of them) can really run.