Well, I'll take a shot. First, you need a positive "head-lock" type plug connector. My favorite is the twist-lock version found on the Radio South Glow Driver, which solves some other issues, too, such as flooded engine or dry, etc.

You also need a simple fuel line pincher, so that the filled bladder can be connected to the spraybar for starting without flooding the engine. I used a piece of 1/16" wire. This is wound 1½ turns into a circle for mounting to the top motor mount with a wood screw, and one arm projects forward at a slight angle. When the bladder is full, slide the fuel line under the arm of the pinchoff, and connect it to the spraybar. Honestly, it takes longer to describe than to make!

When you're ready to fly, anchor the down end of the handle. This is a safety, in case the stooge lets go accidentally. If you're lucky, the only damage will be a broken prop.

After fueling, install the plane in the stooge. Prime the engine and flip a few times. Grasp the plane by the motor mounts with your left hand with your thumb just behind the fuel line. Connect the battery and  start the engine and release the fuel line with your left thumb. You may leave the glowplug connector attached while tuning the engine. Then disconnect the twist-lock and proceed quickly (but carefully) to the handle and fly. The procedure becomes easier with practice. (Imagine that!)

The primary advantages of the procedure I've outlined is that you're in line with the prop disk for only a few seconds after starting, and you never have to reach across the prop to do anything. And the same procedure works if you'rea Lefty; just reverse Right and Left for each step.

Oh, yeah. If you're a Lefty (and start with your Right hand) - - after starting, walk around the outboard wing to  the rear of the plane, and then out to the handle. You absolutely do not want to be in front of the lines should the stooge release prematurely! And if the worst should happen, never try to "save the plane" by grabbing the lines with your bare hand; the cables will cut right through to the bone (and maybe through bone if it's a Fast Combat plane.

And this whole procedure is probably unworkable if you have a rear-exhaust engine. At the very least, considerable adjustment will be necessary. I hope I haven't omitted something crucial; I try never to fly alone; even with aerobatic planes, and especially not when using a Carbon Fiber prop!

A long,metal ,eye hooked skewer(for shishkabobs) drove in circle-center should do the trick with the handle's safety thong looped in the skewers eye. My thongs are on the down side of my handles....Prevents a fly-away.

Please guys, don't try to start planes with 9 in props F2D style.  Even an 8 in. prop is marginal.  You need to be about 7 ft. tall for it too work safely.  Start 'em in the stooge.

The workmate/sleeve stooge is tricky to use.  it works best on relatively short span, high powered planes- in other words, F2D's.  Practive using the thing when you have a helper around.  Sometimes it can be really tricky to get the plane in the air.  When you pull on the lines to pull the plane out the plane wants to yaw away from you.  Then, as soon as it clears the launcher it trys to swing back in.  You need to be prepared to whip it hard and step back fast to keep the lines at all tight.  Also be careful of the wind.  The launcher has to be a bit to the right of dead down wind so you have a partial lap to whip the plane straight before it comes into the wind.  Nail the stooge to the ground.  Otherwise it may tip over on the launch.  Set it up with the plane fairly high, around 3 ft., to give it some room to settle and not hit the ground.

Well I'm 6'5 and even the 7 inch props are too close for me.

Will Speed limit combat planes ,F2d with OS25's, and fomies work in this stooge?  I've got no local helpers most of the time.

Dave 

Most F2D pitcrew use this starting method, so each pitman can start and run a plane if needed.  Hold the outboard wing tightly between your knees, angled down.  If needed, the inboard tip can rest on the ground for extra support.  Hold the fuel line with your left hand.  Flip the prop with your right hand.  EVERYBODY uses a glow plug clip, not the head lock RC type connector.  On F2D size planes <7 in. props this is a pretty safe and secure method of starting.  At least as good as having another person hold the plane.  The plane is locked in place between your knees and won't be going anywhere.  The biggest danger is reaching around the prop to grab the plane for launching.  This is where things can get cramped really quick using larger planes and props.  Most people just aren't tall enough, with long enough arms, to do it safely and reliably.  I got one of my worst ever prop cuts on the left thumb trying this with an LA 40 and a 9 in. prop.  The bigger motors pull harder, vibrate more, are harder to control, and have a lot less room to work around.  It all happened at once, and the prop cut 13 slits up the outside of my thumb.

Tim Hobbins sent me this picture from a Glasgow meet this year, in the rain.

Larry Driskill ran a picture of the sleeve launcher in his Flying Models column last year.

The sleeve launcher has the big advantage of no moving parts to fail.  On the smaller planes, 25 and under, the sleeve is very secure.  Starts to get alittle iffy on larger engines and planes over 48 in.  The mouse trap type launcher needs some careful work on the mechanism so it can't vibrate open.  I've seen more than one do that.

one of our local fliers used a 55 gal drum

he would put his lines around the drum so that airplane and handel were in same place==start engine---hold airplane in right hand pick up handle with left(he is a lefty)-release airplane so that barrel was pivot for lines until lines were straight.
lines would slide on barel for control until lines were straight.

im a lefty to but for somereason this method scared me

David

noooooooo!
not me!
a friend combat flier(in pineville) used to do it.
 he flew big irons/twisters/supertwisters/phantasy

I'm not comfy with the current F2d "crotch lock" method, although thousands of satisfied customers can't wrong.

When I single-handedly start a bladder job, I use the time-honored genuflect positon.

Right knee on the ground, left leg supports the model. 
Inboard wingtip can be into the ground, if you wish. 

Left palm presses the model against my left knee while the left fingers are free to manipulate the fuel line and needle valve.  Flick the prop right handed.

Well, I'll take a shot. First, you need a positive "head-lock" type plug connector. My favorite is the twist-lock version found on the Radio South Glow Driver, which solves some other issues, too, such as flooded engine or dry, etc.

Don't use these. Buy or make a clothespin type glow clip, use a long (5 -6 foot) cord to the battery (the Radio South unit is a good one). I've never seen any competitive pilot use a head-lock connector - just too fiddly in a match. Not to mention the possibility of launching with the thing still attached (the worst that would happen with a clothespin type is the post of the glowplug breaking off).

You also need a simple fuel line pincher, so that the filled bladder can be connected to the spraybar for starting without flooding the engine. I used a piece of 1/16" wire. This is wound 1½ turns into a circle for mounting to the top motor mount with a wood screw, and one arm projects forward at a slight angle. When the bladder is full, slide the fuel line under the arm of the pinchoff, and connect it to the spraybar. Honestly, it takes longer to describe than to make!

Again, what most competition pilots do is squeeze the fuel line shut with the FINGERS when starting. You use the fuel clip when you're filling the bladder, or when the airplane is sitting, waiting for the start, before a match. Once you get ready to start, unclip the line and hold it closed with your fingers. This requires, of course, the right fuel line - a lot is way too stiff for this. I use latex tubing, myself, even if it does tend to rot after a while. I augment my fingers with little polycarbonate line clips:



Nice thing about these is that you can squeeze them shut without actually locking them.

The F2D starting position is actually quite good - it does seem precarious if you've not done it before, but it works pretty well provided you're starting something with a 7" prop or less. I wouldn't try this with a Fast Combat or a Speed Limit with a bigger prop. If you're looking for something to sport fly, get a Magnum or ASP .15, some motor mounts from Bryce and mount the engine on a regular F2D wing. Use a soft nylon 7x4 prop and you'll never break one. On 52 foot lines you get enough speed for it to be fun. If you want something hotter, get a 1/2-A.

Here's a slick fuel line pinchoff.  Large line clip, mounted to the MM. Slide fuel line back and forth as needed.

--Ray

Bob, I will have to vehemently disagree. DO NOT GRAB THE LINES! I am still doing physical therapy on the little finger on my left hand. I cut all the way thru the nerve and tendon. This happened on 29 May. 5 hrs in hospital and stitches that fri, followed by emergency surguy on Mon to reattach tendon and nerve. No feeling in outside of finger forever more. Still doing phsical therapy on finger to restore movement. I was flying my Tutor II with La .46 Best combo I ever had. Tried a new uniflo tank. Was in outside portion of overhead figure 8 when it suddenly quit with no warning. My best  ever plane going straight in on asphalt. I know better but my reflexes took over and I tried to save the plane at the last second by yanking the lines with my left hand. Good thing I wasn't quicker or those .018 lines would have also cut all the way thru my palm. So I say again. DO NOT GRAB THE LINES!