Author Topic: My first combat ship (Read 3448 times)

MarcusCordeiro · « **on:** February 21, 2013, 06:25:49 PM »

In order to take a break, built this Gotcha from Corehouse.
It's my first combat ship, and I'll use it for fun flying and getting some experience, since I want to start flying combat soon.
Enya 25 with a 8X6 for starters...

My late old man always said if I wanted to get good at flying, fly combat ships...

Marcus

ray copeland · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2013, 08:28:19 PM »

Marcus, you may want to go to a fuse mounted needle valve before long!

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2013, 04:08:51 AM »

Quote from: ray copeland on February 21, 2013, 08:28:19 PM

Marcus, you may want to go to a fuse mounted needle valve before long!

Ray

Fuse mounted??
Got any pictures?

Thanks

Marcus

ray copeland · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2013, 06:29:25 AM »

I use the OS #1A ( i believe that's the correct number,finer threads) rc needle set up mounted with screws on topside of the motor mount. In the venturi, if you use one, insert the spray bar that comes with the os engines remote needle set up. I don't have any pics, i am sure some of the combat guys will.

Paul Smith · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2013, 08:59:02 AM »

The point is that the tall needle valve is a sitting duck if it flips over on landing or lands inverted. One partial fix is to shorten (or eliminate) the spring on the needle valve.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2013, 10:47:04 AM »

You're right, and actually when I talked to Phil about the model he sent me a set up, using another NVA...
I'm going to replace it, and if my memory isn't bad, Phil metioned one OS NVA.
I'll check and get back at you guys...

Marcus

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2013, 11:24:59 AM »

OS 1a NVA
I found the pic too...
Had forgotten about it.
It shows what you said.
Will do.

Thanks guys. Can't wait to fly this ship.
I've had the chance to fly some F2D models, but I think I should start with something a little "less" fast...

I know I'm not used to those models, but gee, I couldn't fly level...

Marcus

phil c · « **Reply #7 on:** February 27, 2013, 01:47:01 PM »

Nice progress Marcus.

The F2D planes are purposely built tail heavy to improve reaction time. If you can't fly it level it is too tail heavy. Bolt some weight, 10-15 gr. to start, up front, or pull the motor forward if possible. There is no reason(barring age or bad reflexes) that you can't fly a combat model easily. If it is too twitchy to keep level it is badly trimmed. As you get practiced you'll learn how to fly more responsive planes, but nobody I know purposely flys competition with a plane that they can't easily control. If you can't control it you can't aim it and get cuts.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #8 on:** February 27, 2013, 03:12:47 PM »

Phil

I'm glad you liked it.
Until I get the OS NVA, let's go with the stock one.
The model I flew was trimmed for my friend who let me try it.
He likes it tail heavy. I'm more a nose heavy guy.
I'll be flying the Gotcha soon.
Thanks for all your support.
The kit is great and easy to build.
There was more than enough SLC, I love that stuff!!

Marcus

john e. holliday · « **Reply #9 on:** February 28, 2013, 09:50:50 AM »

That SLC(Super Lite Covering) will spoil yah just like laser cutting.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #10 on:** February 28, 2013, 11:01:21 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on February 28, 2013, 09:50:50 AM

That SLC(Super Lite Covering) will spoil yah just like laser cutting.

Already has...

Marcus

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2013, 08:24:02 PM »

It flew today beautifully, but I'd forgotten to "lock" the stabilator hinge shaft, so it came loose... But the only damage was a prop and some dirt I'll have to clean, maybe tear apart the motor to clean inside.
Loved how it flies!!
Oh, got the OS NVA and will be installing it soon. luckily, the stock Enya NVA didn't break with the crash...

Marcus

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #12 on:** March 12, 2013, 05:47:14 PM »

You guys think I got it right???

Marcus

john e. holliday · « **Reply #13 on:** March 14, 2013, 05:55:19 AM »

Flying over grass you are still going to take out the needle valve assembly landing/crashing inverted.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #14 on:** March 14, 2013, 06:30:51 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on March 14, 2013, 05:55:19 AM

Flying over grass you are still going to take out the needle valve assembly landing/crashing inverted.

Doc

I was thinking about it... Maybe I could make a "roll cage" with a piece of wire just to cover the NVA.
will think of something... But I'll fly it anyway...such a fun ship!!

Marcus

mike londke · « **Reply #15 on:** March 14, 2013, 11:32:28 AM »

Marcus, thats the needle I use on my Speed limit stuff. Mounted almost the same way. Works good. R.I.P. Clive Burr "Up the Irons" and "Run to the Hills" Mike

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #16 on:** March 14, 2013, 12:57:54 PM »

Quote from: mike londke on March 14, 2013, 11:32:28 AM

Marcus, thats the needle I use on my Speed limit stuff. Mounted almost the same way. Works good. R.I.P. Clive Burr "Up the Irons" and "Run to the Hills" Mike

Yeah Mike...
Saw that in the fanclub site.

Marcus

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #17 on:** March 26, 2013, 07:26:45 PM »

OK...
So, I couldn't really set the engine with the OS NVA, it seemed that fuel was leaking due to the bladder pressure, so the engine would alternate speeding up and down and eventually stopping.
Stock NVA back, it was possible to fly, but the 2 1/2 oz of fuel finish in like 2 minutes, so I think I'll have to rework a venturi to use, so I can get more flight time and to slow it down a bit...
I'll get one pro NVA from enya to replace the simple one there is and i'll shorten the needle, that should avoid broken NVAs and help with the fine tuning.
At least my take offs are OK now, no more "rodeo" take off...

Marcus

mike londke · « **Reply #18 on:** March 27, 2013, 09:10:11 AM »

Marcus, That needle can leak a little. Here is the fix. Take the needle out and cut a small piece of fuel tubing put it on the needle and reinstall. the tubing should be just big enough the be squished a tiny bit when its close to where you will set it. If the tube is too short it will still leak, if its too big it will bulge out alot. You can try different sizes til you find the one that wont leak. Just put it on a full bladder and test it. We have another mod to the needle that works very well for us. I will try to explain the best I can. The part of the needle opposite the tapered point, the one that sticks out on the knurled knob. You can take that part and push it down further. Flat with the knurled knob. We do this by putting the needle in a socket that is longer than the needle and using a press push the needle down. Actually I just close the chuck on my drill press and use that. It does not take much to move it. Ok so now the needle is longer, take it and chuck it up in a lathe or drill press and get it spinning. Using a light abrasive(sand paper or stone) make the taper longer and finer. Last step is to solder the top where you moved the needle. We have found that this set up gives a better range to set the needle, as you have more taper in it. I don't know if anyone else is doing this, my friend Larry figured this out last year and I have been doing it ever since. It works very well for us. I will go take some pics and post them.

mike londke · « **Reply #19 on:** March 27, 2013, 09:25:43 AM »

Ok first pic is of the fuel tubing on the needle, this should stop your leak. Next two pics show two needles before and after mod. Hope this helps. "Up the Irons" Mike

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #20 on:** March 27, 2013, 11:58:41 AM »

Mike

Perfectly understood.
Thanks a lot...
Will change to a metal tab like yours, much better.

Up the Irons

Marcus

mike londke · « **Reply #21 on:** March 27, 2013, 12:06:07 PM »

I make the bracket for the NVA from a piece of hose clamp metal. Snip off a piece about 3/4" long and drill a hole at each end, one hole for the bolt to motor mount, the other for NVA. This works pretty good even if you stuff it inverted. It will usually just move and lay down. I have not broken a NVA yet.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #22 on:** March 27, 2013, 07:13:29 PM »

Thank you so much Mike.

Marcus

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #23 on:** May 23, 2013, 12:59:05 PM »

Back at it...

A few adjustments and installed a venturi. It's 8mm in dia. (.320), and test fly to check.
I have got myself a secret test flight facility...
Will be back soon with results...

Marcus

mike londke · « **Reply #24 on:** May 23, 2013, 03:22:49 PM »

Have Fun Marcus! I want a flight report. Mike

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #25 on:** May 23, 2013, 05:27:51 PM »

Hey Mike

Thanks for the vídeos!!
They are great!

And for the tips too...

Marcus

bobsrc · « **Reply #26 on:** May 24, 2013, 10:44:06 PM »

The simple solution to the leak problem is to connect the high pressure line from the bladder to the nipple oposite of the needle so that the needle is on the low pressure side of the fuel flow. This is just the opposite of how the lines are hooked up in your photos.
Good luck,

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #27 on:** May 26, 2013, 12:14:38 PM »

Quote from: bobsrc on May 24, 2013, 10:44:06 PM

The simple solution to the leak problem is to connect the high pressure line from the bladder to the nipple oposite of the needle so that the needle is on the low pressure side of the fuel flow. This is just the opposite of how the lines are hooked up in your photos.
Good luck,

Thanks Bobsrc

Marcus

dave siegler · « **Reply #28 on:** May 27, 2013, 06:44:11 AM »

I usually do what mike does, rather than a metal strap, use a chunk of the end from a 1/2 inch tie wrap. It bends and will not break. Also run the line backwards as bob suggested and make sure the threads are covered in fuel tubing.