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Author Topic: Killer Saucer  (Read 1352 times)

Offline John_Craig

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Killer Saucer
« on: February 15, 2010, 04:34:44 AM »
 Some advice please on taming this beast before it kills the pilot with a heart attack or stroke.  I just want to sport fly it.

This is not the Saucy Saucer but a 22" saucer with an open center section for sport & combat flying.  I have it balanced 5" from the leading edge (12%). This is ahead of the highest point on the wing. No CG on the plans. Plans call for a 2" bellcrank I used a 3".  I have a long control horn & use the outer hole.  I also drilled & use a hole closer to the pivot on the bellcrank. Total throw 20 degrees each way. Power off landings are easy, just slides right in. Power on flight is a much different story. Apply a bit of down coming into the wind & it tucks & heads for the ground.  A friend ?? suggested try a little tail weight.  I won't do that again as it made the problem worse.

Does anyone have any experience? Narrow 3/8 " leading edge is the problem? Seems as if more nose weight would only make it more sensitive to the down control? Still to much throw?

See Barry Baxter's photo under Combat plans  Killer Saucer  http://www.controllineplans.com/frameset2.htm

It is a symmetrical airfoil. A flat circular sheet of 1/8 balsa is first made & then ribs are glued to the top & bottom.  Built per plans. The whole elevator pivots.



« Last Edit: February 15, 2010, 04:06:22 PM by John_Craig »

Offline Marvin Denny

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2010, 10:28:13 AM »
 John, is the engine mounted upright or sidewinder?  If up right, somehow block off the center hole of the saucer---tape etc.  Be sure to do both sides.   A question???  When flying inverted, does it dart toward the  ground, or still towerd the bottom of the saucer?  The engine could be blocking the air passing through the hole somehow in a single direction but not in the other.  By temporarily blocking off the hole you can check this out.
  DUCT TAPE!!!  Another use!!!

  Bigiron
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Offline John_Craig

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2010, 04:15:02 PM »
I like the thought of using duct tape.  Please see Bare's photo.   I have not tried inverted in any form.  It scares the hell out of me just trying to keep it level & out of the ground. 

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2010, 09:29:46 AM »
20 degrees is way too much elevator.  Need to get it down to 10-15 degrees.  If it turns too quick both ways.  If only one way, trybiasing the controls to where there is more up than down.  My thoughts of super sensitive planes I have had in the past. 
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Offline W.D. Roland

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2010, 08:35:00 PM »
All of the above and make sure no up or down thrust.

Controls flexing?(push rod)
David Roland
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Offline Michael Boucher

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2010, 10:16:56 AM »
Hello, Has anyone seen any of the saucer shaped type models fly?  Are any of them stable or are they all  hairy to fly?  Looking forward to hearing from you.  Thanks, Mike
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2010, 01:21:41 PM »
Seems as if more nose weight would only make it more sensitive to the down control? Still to much throw?
More nose weight will _not_ make it more sensitive to down control.  Way too much nose weight will make it want to dive when the engine quits (i.e. you'll need flying speed for up elevator to be effective), but in general more nose weight will make it less sensitive all around.

I'd say that if moving the CG back makes things worse you should at least try moving it forward and see what happens.  Do something quick and temporary -- think washers and electrical tape, or brass prop nuts -- and give it a whirl.  If it works make it permanent, if it doesn't work what have you lost?

Then if that doesn't work you can play with throw at the handle.
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline ray copeland

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2010, 02:27:25 PM »
John, i fly several coroplast saucers in the 12" range with norvels. You would be suprised at how stable in flight they are. That being said, it did take me a while to find the right combo for balance. I still have a few that would hunt and can barely be flown because they are tailheavy. I also have a larger one built from corefoam board that sports a fox .15 and flys quite well. If line tension is good  i would try a brass prop nut to add some nose weight, let us know what you figure out.
Ray from Greensboro, North Carolina , six laps inverted so far with my hand held vertically!!! (forgot to mention, none level!) AMA# 902150

Offline Thomas Wilk

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2010, 04:34:11 PM »
I have 1 full size plan of the Sassy Saucer.  span 24.00 power   .29-35 magazine    53 AT May p36   designed by  Harriss, George P.  I have a scan of the magazine article.

Asking $2.00 for envelope and postage.

Tom Wilk

Offline Michael Boucher

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2010, 10:31:27 PM »
Hi Tom, I'm interested, sent you a email.  Thanks, Mike  H^^
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Offline dennis lipsett

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Re: Killer Saucer
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2010, 03:32:05 PM »
Hello, Has anyone seen any of the saucer shaped type models fly?  Are any of them stable or are they all  hairy to fly?  Looking forward to hearing from you.  Thanks, Mike

I built one of the Jetco Saucers in the 60's with a Fox 15. It was origionally published in Mechanics illustrated. I don't remember it being difficult to fly but the tank room was non existant so flights were about 3 minutes long.
Dennis


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