Author Topic: Veco-Dumas Chief build (Read 4341 times)

Dennis Holler · « **on:** May 19, 2014, 09:26:43 PM »

A little while back I asked in the open forum about landing gear wire size for this here Chief. In and among the great replies, Doc Holiday pointed out that I should be posting some pictures of the build or attempted build.

So, Here goes.. At this point the wing is mostly done, I need to finish up the flap linkage and sheet that top center portion. I did add some 1/16th between the front stringers and that sure seemed to stiffen the wing up a good deal. It sure didn't add much weight, I know that. The wing, btw is all kit wood, while the fuselage is new wood as those parts were punched out and missing from the kit. I just used the left over punched out boards to trace/make up my new sides and formers. Seemed to work ok and the wood sure is lighter than the kit wood. I did find some 1/8th inch wire and bent that up to some semblance of landing gear.

Must get a wire bender in the future!!! I'm not sure on the engine yet, I have a few to choose from, ST C35, ST40, OS MAX S 35, OS MAX H 40 and probably a few others. I'll need to move that first former back slightly for the .40's, I may move it back either way just so I have the flexibility to mount 35's or 40's. Anyway, so far so good, I have a set of old Veco wheels and a Veco spinner for it, i know I use new lighter stuff, but what the heck!

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #1 on:** May 19, 2014, 09:29:02 PM »

Wing view

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #2 on:** May 19, 2014, 09:30:03 PM »

and the other way

tom brightbill · « **Reply #3 on:** May 19, 2014, 10:36:37 PM »

Smart to add the shear webs Dennis, mere grams in exchange for the strength. Keep the photos coming!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #4 on:** May 20, 2014, 09:00:39 AM »

Plane looks great in bare bones. Go with the OS Max 35S of the engines listed. Also I would suggest you add more cloth hinges if you are not that far along yet. Serves two purposes, seals the hinge line and gives more hinge area.

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #5 on:** May 20, 2014, 11:39:43 AM »

Thanks John, I will definitely add more hinges, I can still fish additional ones through there.

I have a question on the flap linkage, I have used the middle hole on teh bellcrank and middle on the flap link ( like on the plans). I also understand the idea of using a shorter throw on the bellcrank end with a longer throw on the elvator end in order to make it a bit less jumpy to mild control changes. My question is generally or rule of thumb, how do you determine the proper relationship between the flap movement and elevator movement? Is it 1:1, 2;1, 1:2? While I have not directly searched for that exact topic, I also don't recall coming across it lately either. Just curious since I am at the stage of making that a semi permenant choice

I can handle the Max S 35, it's what I used to set up that first bulkhead, so it should fit real nice in there.

Yes, I 'm glad I added the shear webs, I was or am tempted to cut a hole in heach to lighten them further, but at this stage I am likely to do more damage than good, so I may leave them well alone

Thanks for the words of encouragement!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #6 on:** May 21, 2014, 09:09:30 AM »

Does the plans show the linkage set up. You want more elevator movement than flap. I think on all mine I have a max of about 35 degrees on the elevator and less on the flaps. If I remember right the old kits used to show 45 degrees both up and down on the elevator. The quickest turning plane I ever had, other than a combat job, had less then 30 degrees of elevator movement with same on the flaps.

billbyles · « **Reply #7 on:** May 22, 2014, 02:00:11 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Holler on May 20, 2014, 11:39:43 AM

Thanks John, I will definitely add more hinges, I can still fish additional ones through there.

I have a question on the flap linkage, I have used the middle hole on teh bellcrank and middle on the flap link ( like on the plans). I also understand the idea of using a shorter throw on the bellcrank end with a longer throw on the elvator end in order to make it a bit less jumpy to mild control changes. My question is generally or rule of thumb, how do you determine the proper relationship between the flap movement and elevator movement? Is it 1:1, 2;1, 1:2? While I have not directly searched for that exact topic, I also don't recall coming across it lately either. Just curious since I am at the stage of making that a semi permenant choice

I can handle the Max S 35, it's what I used to set up that first bulkhead, so it should fit real nice in there.

Yes, I 'm glad I added the shear webs, I was or am tempted to cut a hole in heach to lighten them further, but at this stage I am likely to do more damage than good, so I may leave them well alone

Thanks for the words of encouragement!

Hi Dennis,

Glad to see you posting the photos. When I was a kid I built the Chief from a late (Joe Wagner) Veco kit & learned the pattern with it. It's pretty nostalgic to see the good old Chief being built in its original form, wire gear, Veco wheels, and all.

Paul Smith · « **Reply #8 on:** May 23, 2014, 12:39:22 PM »

I just flew mine again today. I've been thorough several engines. It has an OS FP 40 now. It feels a little over-powered. I'm going down to an FP 35 with a smaller venturi. The judges likje 'em slow. Even with 600 square inches of wing area it goes fast.

RogerGreene · « **Reply #9 on:** June 05, 2014, 11:25:33 AM »

Just wondering are the flaps connected to the wing? And how is the wing to slide into the fuselage with the flaps connected?

Bill Little · « **Reply #10 on:** June 05, 2014, 12:20:10 PM »

Hi Dennis,

Looking good! Just make sure to line everything up correctly when assembling the big parts and don't overload the finish.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #11 on:** June 05, 2014, 07:55:12 PM »

Roger, You just have to cut a slot for the flaps and then fill it back in after the wing is in. Same with the flap horn. It can be done either way.

Dennis Holler · « **Reply #12 on:** June 06, 2014, 08:24:36 PM »

Sorry, haven't touched it lately, darn, work, kids, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Yes, I will cut the sides in order to put the wing in, I just cut them whole originally since the sides were punched out and gone. Hopefully I can get some time to work on it soon, but we have 5 more soccer games this weekend for the girls

and I went to the SVRA at the Brickyard today and man was that AWESOME!

EddyR · « **Reply #13 on:** June 27, 2014, 07:05:28 AM »

Cut out the body under the wing and glue the wing in.Then replace the part under the wing.

FLOYD CARTER · « **Reply #14 on:** July 09, 2014, 10:32:00 AM »

Here is a Chief 1 with pollywog airfoil. Power is a Brodak 40. Built from Tom Dixon plans.

Floyd

Paul Smith · « **Reply #15 on:** July 09, 2014, 08:13:58 PM »

Quote from: RogerGreene on June 05, 2014, 11:25:33 AM

Just wondering are the flaps connected to the wing? And how is the wing to slide into the fuselage with the flaps connected?

Final assembly is always problem. There's no perfect way.

1. Cut out the fuselage bottom and glue it back in after the wing.
2. Install the flap horn to the wing and cut just enough slot to let the flap horn into the body.

Author Topic: Veco-Dumas Chief build (Read 4341 times)

Dennis Holler

Veco-Dumas Chief build

Dennis Holler

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

Dennis Holler

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

tom brightbill

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

john e. holliday

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

Dennis Holler

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

john e. holliday

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

billbyles

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

Paul Smith

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

RogerGreene

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

Bill Little

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

Jim Kraft

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

Dennis Holler

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

EddyR

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

FLOYD CARTER

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build

Paul Smith

Re: Veco-Dumas Chief build