Author Topic: Brodak Nobler VS 1957 green box Nobler (Read 3266 times)

Dan Bregar · « **on:** March 25, 2011, 06:28:55 PM »

I'm looking for some help in making a decision between these two kits. I notice there are some slight differences in dimensions. Anyone have a preference in which one flys better, all things being equal as far as engine goes ?

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2011, 06:51:34 PM »

They fly pretty much the same. If you didn't know which was which when you were flying them, I doubt you could tell a difference.

However, the '57 looks a little better.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #2 on:** March 26, 2011, 09:09:45 AM »

Thank you Clint for your input !

Neal Beekman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2011, 09:43:09 AM »

I do believe the Brodak Nobler Fuse is wider and the wing is thinner than the Green Box Nobler The ARF is closer to the Green Box.I have had bolth and in my opinion the ARF is better.But again I am not an Expert.

tom hampshire · « **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2011, 01:11:24 PM »

Here's some notes on the dimensional changes between the 3 most common Nobler variants. The trend clearly went toward a thicker wing, and has continued in that direction. If you want to power it with a stunt Fox, the Brodak kit of the 1952 Nobler is probably the choice. If the power is more modern, with more punch, then the Greenbox should be your option. But either will give very satisfactory results. Most of the performance is in the trim anyway.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #5 on:** March 26, 2011, 06:24:10 PM »

Tom

Wow, very nice information. I thank you for your cool information of the subtleties of the design differences.

Bill Little · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2011, 04:45:06 AM »

I have not built my Brodak kit yet, but IIRC, there is less asymmetry in the wing panels on the Green Box versus the Brodak.

Either are good flying planes, built straight.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2011, 08:39:56 AM »

Bill

Thanks for that tidbit. Makes me lean toward the greenbox version, which is rather ironic cause I have one of those in my garage that I purchased around 1965 or so. Last time I looked at it which was many moons ago I was not to impressed with the wood quality in the box. Do you think the "new" green box nobler would have better wood quality than the old Top Flite kits did. ? I guess I'm referring to the RSM kit.

Maybe I'd be better off just buying a new one of these.

Balsa Butcher · « **Reply #8 on:** March 27, 2011, 09:50:12 AM »

You will find the RSM kit a quantum leap in quailty from the original Top Flite kit. That would be the way to go.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #9 on:** March 27, 2011, 09:55:55 AM »

Thank you Pete for your comment. That's probably the way I'll go then. Much appreciated !

john e. holliday · « **Reply #10 on:** March 27, 2011, 12:05:33 PM »

Wasn't Top Flite the producer of the Green Box Nobler? My first Nobler was a Christmas present when it was advertised. Had a note from To Flite saying they were not quite ready to ship. Later after getting married I built another Top Flite Nobler that is still hanging in the shop. Took pains to do a good finish on it and still looks almost the same. Also have the ARF Nobler that is a test bed for the EVO .36. De Hill I think has the Brodak Nobler I built in Tulsa after I destroyed the inboard wing.

Bill Little · « **Reply #11 on:** March 27, 2011, 03:07:04 PM »

HI Doc,

Yes, Top Flite made the "Green Box" Nobler.

Bill

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #12 on:** March 27, 2011, 03:20:32 PM »

Doc

So how much testing have you done with the Evo 36 ?

john e. holliday · « **Reply #13 on:** March 29, 2011, 05:34:21 PM »

Enough that in my area that it doesn't like the short venturi or the tall one with the little hole. Also it does not like the tongue muffler. Last time out it was starting one or two flips. If I remember right I am using a 11-4 power point to get a decent run in the air. Tried the so called 11-4 1/5 grey prop which it did not like. Soon as weather breaks will be forcing myself to get out more this year. Just have to take more pain pills. At least the hip is working now with no pain.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #14 on:** March 30, 2011, 06:00:14 PM »

Doc

Next time try shimming the head, just for grins

Getting old ain't the fun it's cracked up to be. So far most of my joints still work pretty well though. It would be tough if they didn't though. Keep on keeping on.

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #15 on:** April 07, 2011, 08:53:37 AM »

Dan,

FWIW, I believe the Brodak Nobler is OTS legal. Of the 3 commercially available I like the G' Nobler. Not OTS, but classic legal.

W.

Bill Little · « **Reply #16 on:** April 07, 2011, 04:22:32 PM »

Quote from: Ward Van Duzer on April 07, 2011, 08:53:37 AM

Dan,

FWIW, I believe the Brodak Nobler is OTS legal. Of the 3 commercially available I like the G' Nobler. Not OTS, but classic legal.

W.

Hi Ward-O,

Yep, the Brodak Nobler kit is OTS legal (with the flap deduction LOL!!).

"Technically", the Top Flite kit of the Gieseke Nobler is not Classic legal. But, since Nos. 30 is rapidly overtaking Classic at the meets I am hearing about (not a bad thing, we can still enter with Classic era models), it is probably a moot point. The kit from Ultra Hobbies (Steve Moon) is a Classic legal version as are the plans from the late Paul Tupker.

Big Bear

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #17 on:** April 08, 2011, 06:06:42 PM »

Quote from: Ward Van Duzer on April 07, 2011, 08:53:37 AM

Dan,

FWIW, I believe the Brodak Nobler is OTS legal. Of the 3 commercially available I like the G' Nobler. Not OTS, but classic legal.

W.

Ward

Thanks for your comment. Who currently makes a kit for the Gieseke Nobler ? Anyone ?

Dan

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #18 on:** April 09, 2011, 07:13:30 AM »

TY

Thanks. I see they are "temporarily out of stock"

Bill Little · « **Reply #19 on:** April 11, 2011, 12:25:39 AM »

Quote from: Dan Bregar on April 09, 2011, 07:13:30 AM

TY

Thanks. I see they are "temporarily out of stock"

Hi Dan,

Like I said in my post, Ultra Hobbies had made the Classic Legal version of the Gieseke Nobler. Rumor has it that there may be more soon. Put a want ad in the Classifieds and one will probably show up.

You can find the Top Flite Gieseke Nobler kits on evilbay every so often, but they are really only legal for Nos.30.

Big Bear

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #20 on:** April 11, 2011, 08:18:09 AM »

Better still just get the plan ..

Its only Ribs, fuzeside wall, engine crutch, stab, elvator, flaps, top block and some sanding and your Done!

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #21 on:** April 12, 2011, 04:35:19 PM »

Quote from: PJ Rowland on April 11, 2011, 08:18:09 AM

Better still just get the plan ..

Its only Ribs, fuzeside wall, engine crutch, stab, elvator, flaps, top block and some sanding and your Done!

Yeah PJ. In an hour or two I can go fly it !

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #22 on:** April 12, 2011, 05:48:51 PM »

I can have a model from plans to frame stage in 3 days.
Frame stage to carbon tissue in 2 days.
Carbon Tissue to primer in 3 days
Primer to paint in 1 day
Paint to field in 2 days.

Total time Plans to field : 11 days.

About 160 Hrs.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #23 on:** April 13, 2011, 04:57:15 PM »

I CAN'T !!!

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #24 on:** April 13, 2011, 10:41:54 PM »

HAHA i dont like those time frame either... Its certainly not my preference, I've done it twice - cruched a build to a time scale.

I like to ease out over 3 months.

Dick Pacini · « **Reply #25 on:** April 14, 2011, 10:24:25 AM »

Back when, before the advent of CA adhesives, ample time had to be allotted for chewing the Ambroid or Duco off your fingers. I always enjoyed that time because it allowed me to step back and admire my handiwork; two pieces of wood stuck together. I also had a stereo in the basement, blaring out my choice of tunes from my LP collection. Now that I look back, I pissed away a lot of time that way. Build time often spanned two seasons for a profile.