"Upright" or "Inverted" means will it sit on top of the bellcrank platform(upright), or hang beneath the bellcrank platform (inverted). Besides that, there choices about the elevator bellcrank part of the system. You can get a 2 1/2" span bellcrank, or a 3 1/2" span bellcrank. You may also choose whether the up line is the front leadout or the rear leadout.
There are no springs used in a typical 3 line system. The tension of the throttle line opposes the tension of the elevation lines. When you pull the throttle leadout, the up and down lines "retract" into the wing by the same amount you pulled out the throttle line. Properly set up, you can release the trigger on the handle and the throttle stays put.
Several caveats: The bellcrank and handle work as a system. There are some home made systems out there, and it is possible to mix and match parts, but do yourself a favor and get the things that are meant to work together. Second, there is no provision for line length adjustment on the handle, and getting the throttle line just the right length is paramount, so you may have to fine tune things with different size line connectors. Third, expect to do some fiddling to make everything work, so it's better if the control system is all external.
I would consider a different airplane, in all honesty. My first 3 line trainer was a slab wing model, similar to the Streak Trainer. The fun part of flying this type of airplane is touch and go's, so you want a robust airplane with stout landing gear. A higher wing loading is a good thing for this! You also want enough room for an RC clunk tank, or at least a tank with the pickup at the bottom rather than on the centerline. Adjustable leadouts would also be helpful. I think everyone in the club flew mine, and it finally died when the threads on the elevator pushrod wore out after hundreds of flights.
Once you are successful, you will be able to adapt just about any model to throttle control. Go ahead, pull the trigger.....