How many Zeros does a person need? One More! Here's the first look at the next one in line. It's essentially the same as the last one, but with the more "traditional" wingtips. The slider is also different. Check the next post for details.

The group picture also shows a pair of WW2 combat Zeros. Plans are available from Ultra Hobby Products.

Bill, is the eyelet free to move about?  I guess with b/c up and down line spread, it won't travel in much more than shown in the picture.?.
Lee TGD

Bill, is the eyelet free to move about?  I guess with b/c up and down line spread, it won't travel in much more than shown in the picture.?.
Lee TGD

The eyelet is free to "float". Due to the spread of the lines at the bellcrank, the eyelet usually rides up against the side of the slider. The eyelet is there simply to keep the lines grouped together when they slide back to the low speed position. It may not even be necessary, but I don't think it hurts anything. It is important that the slider slot is narrow enough that the eyelet can't get through to the "pilot's" side of the slider. Otherwise, the eyelet would end up about half way between the plane and pilot. Again, this probably wouldn't hurt anything, it would just mean the eyelet isn't doing what it's there for.

Bill, I like that. I'll try it some day. Thanks for the Pics.
Wayne

The rib is slotted for the back end of the slider frame, and notched for the loop on the front of the slider. The rib is 1/16 balsa, with 1/16 balsa doublers with the grain vertical. After the wing is fully covered and finished, the slider gets epoxied in place. Up front, a couple of drops of paint mixed in the epoxy make the glue joint invisible.

I couldn't stand it. I had to change the line release mechanism location. Putting it on the solid balsa tip is both functionally and structurally better. Now I won't have to build yet another Zero.

All of mine crank in some UP when they slide. If you've ever had the slider release during hi speed, you will appreciate up instead of down! During low speed, the up control doesn't seem to bother me, and is usually welcomed, at least when hanging. Some people use some sort of intermediate guide between the slider and bellcrank to reduce or eliminate the elevator shift.

I don't know an exact number, but I can beat the topic into submission for you!

First, find the ideal high speed location using the line rake calculator on the NCLRA web site. For the purposes of a typical profile carrier model, the best high speed leadout position is about 7/8" behind the CG. To keep the plane tracking straight on takeoff, which gives the best high speed, the high speed line guide position should be as far toward the tip as practical.

For low speed, the rule book says the lines must emerge from the model no farther aft than the trailing edge of the wing root. But it doesn't say where along the wingspan the line guide has to be. It should be obvious that the closer to the fuselage the line guide is, the more sweep you get. When you have exceeded the magic combination of too much tip weight, too close a line guide, and/or too far aft a line position, the airplane gets "wobbly" and hinges badly on the end of the lines. At that point in flight, extend your arm or step toward the plane to eliminate some line tension which will reduce the "recoil" as the plane wobbles side to side. To fix it, change whichever variable is easiest to change. You probably won't rip out the slider and move it farther towards the wingtip, but maybe you can limit the slider's rearward travel, or remove a bit of tip weight. Some people seem to get away with a slider half way between the fuselage and wingtip, but to me that is too close. 2/3 of the way out to the tip is probably better.

Clearly the ideal high speed and low speed positions present somewhat of a contradiction. You can 1)Pick a compromise position for your slider, perhaps 3/4 of the way to the wingtip, 2)Install the slider at an angle, so it is farther out to the tip in front, and closer to the fuselage in the rear, or 3) have separate devices to hold the lines in the high speed and low speed positions. I have used all three arrangements. To my knowledge, local modeler Jim Kirby was the first to suggest the angled slider, which was featured on my  profile MO-1 plans. Plenty of people use this design. My last two Zeros have used the compromise position slider, and the one under construction will use a separate latch for the high speed line position, and a more inward slider for low speed.

The structure and design of the airplane also add into the equation. A  built up wing with internal controls dictates a slider at the tip with limited rearward travel. (Yeah, I know, you could use some dihedral and come out the bottom at some point). Sliders on top of the wing typically necessitate a different design then sliders under the wing. When in doubt, copy something else that has proven to work!

Why don't all the lines go through it?

Gary Hull calls it a "Jump Buater". Worked on my new profile slider set just fine.
Thanks
Wayne

I think Orin Humphries from Washington was the first one to publish the "jump buster" over 20 years ago. I never understood why you didn't put all the lines through it. That way you'd have no problems with the elevator OR the throttle when the slider slid. But I never found it necessary, personally.

On my current generation sliders, there is no "carriage" to slide, just the lines themselves moving through a slot. Thus, no friction or binding.

bill
whats the blue stuff you use for wing fillets?

 I've been thinking about trying some of the Superfil stuff. On something like a wing fillet for example, how long does it take to set up before you can sand it?

Wayne, what are you doing hiding over here,, sheesh,,
the SuperFIll is great stuff, I typically allow 24 hours to sand because much sooner and it just wants to gum up the paper.
It is the cats meow for fillets

Wayne,
 Brodak is selling an unspecified quantity of Super-Fil for about $17.50. It looks like a comparable amount to Epoxolite or Epoxy-lite. OR, you can buy about a quart of Super-Fil from Aircraft Spruce or any of several other aviation suppliers for about $20.00. I was able to get mine at a local airport. The one thing I don't really know is what kind of shelf life it has. If you are used to using epoxy and microballoons, I GUARANTEE you will like this stuff better. If you don't, I'll buy it from you!

One thing about Super-Fil, while wet it can be shaped to a nice radius if you keep your radius tool (the dull end of an aluminum X-acto knife in my case) wet with with rubbing alcohol. The same technique can be used for Sig Epoxilite except use water to moisten. This minimizes sanding after drying. Zero looks great Bill! 

I missed being at the Albuquerque contest also but moved back to Northern CA in June. Maybe next year I can make the drive. As a consolation prize we had the Ted Goyet contest here the same weekend, no carrrier though. 

Mike, I only have some three views that are blown up to 44" span, with some pencil lines and notes. After staring at them for a long time, I think smaller would be appropriate for class I, and for class II I will have to watch the weight every step of the way. In the far back corners of my brain I have considered building a class I to the size of the electric Parkzone F4F Wildcat. The fuselage could be sanded smooth and become the basis for a plug to mold fiberglass fuse shells, and the flying surfaces could be conventional wood constuction. If 2.4 ghz is allowed in the future, this plane could be an electric carrier model almost as-is!