On 1/16" and smaller, I use a pair of lineman's pliers and can make a smaller and tighter Z bend than any special made tool on the market. On anything larger, you DON"T use a Z bend. SOme kit makers had hydraulic benders that could do it with a special die. I remember seeing the set up Glenn SIG made for their kit landing gear and such and it was pretty cool scrath built machine. On anything lager than 1/16" I just use a washer soldered to the inside and a wheel collar on the outside. Another approach is to not use any bends, and use 4-40 ball links instead at each junction in the control linkage.
   Type at you later,
     Dan McEntee

Thanks Dave. That's exactly what I did only I didn't have to have both bends in the same plane. I just needed a short space so that the pushrod wouldn't fall out of the bell crank and also not hit the upper wing spar when rotating. I didn't want to solder a washer in case the heat melted the bell crank.

I have switched over to ball links on my pushrods, but before that I would make a plywood plate to hold the push rod in place.   Of course the plate is also part of the bell crank mount.   I do plates top and bottom with bolts long enough to mount the bell crank.  If you do a search you may find some shots of my method.

Dennis,

With one more step, you can turn your pushrod end into a z-bend if you want to. Just twist the short segment between the bends until it is in the same plane as the rod itself.

It is worth noting that if the fit is loose, then twisting the pushrod as shown in the photo may allow it to pop out. A straightened (all in a plane) z-bend will not. This becomes a "feature" as noted by Steve if you want to get it apart without swinging the entire rod--which would be impossible in a built-up deal like the Jr.

The other thing that can be done and works fine for most sport planes is to bend just a 90 on the end. Then arrange the bellcrank so that there is just a small clearance gap to the plywood platform which then traps the rod. Then pull up on the end poking thru the 'crank and install a wheel collar on it. You can cut a slight notch in the rod for the setscrew to seat in. A little blue Loctite and it's not going anywhere. If the collar ever did come loose, the pushrod is still trapped between the 'crank and the plywood platform. You can wipe the wear area on the platform with thin CyA for durability.

Good luck with your Lil' Nobler!

The Divot

Here's a shot of the final install, which I'm happy with for a .15 powered sport model.. PS; I use Tom Morris & Windy control system components for larger models.

Something that may add to the life of the controls.  On the flap horn you might add about 1/16 thickness JB Weld (the black stuff) to each side and re-drill the holes.  Metal to metal wears very fast with the vibration of an IC.  The additional thickness will also keep the pushrod straight at the bellcrank.  Personally I would not use a "Z" bend on anything over an 1/2A.  They force you into using a thin bellcrank or a nylon one where you can squeeze the wire bend through the hole.    I like mine my bellcranks thick and bushed.  If you have a floor you can always use it to keep the wire from coming out and solder a washer on top.  I have always had the pushrod come out the bottom on these thin wing types and bent the ends of the bellcrank up a bit to give the leadouts clearance.  If there needed to be a "Z" it was in the pushrod where it comes out of the wing. I doubt that I am in the majority here but, I have never had a control system done this way wear out either.

Ken

  Well, for a sport model, the "keep" that you used on the flap control horn would have worked on the bell crank also. Just have the end come up from the bottom with enough length so that it would hit the bell crank mount before it would fall out. Then add the keeper, set so that the push rod clears to bell crank mount and does not rub. Have just a slight curve to the keeper with just enough tension so as to not cause any binding. Make sure nothing hangs up on the structure around it during full deflection both ways. That would last forever and easy to install.
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

Yes that's exactly what I did. Controls are totally free (no binding whatsoever. Thanks guys.