I did a Google search for a battery-powered buffer to polish out my dope finishes.  All that is available is big, heavy units that run at 4000 RPM.  Good for cars, but I want to tame it down: lower RPM, and light/small for models.

What are you using?

Floyd

P.S.  I just did a search on Stunthanger, which provided more good data than Google!

But, still no cordless buffers.

While searching on Stunthanger, I ran across a similar thread about using hand polishing (3M- Maguiers, etc.) and someone reported these conventional compounds do not work on 2-part automotive clear-coats.

I sort of discovered the same thing, when I tried to use 3M polishing compound on my clear-coat.  Didn't touch it!

You wont accomplish much just polishing the surface on a sprayed catalyzed surface,, you really need to do a "cut and polish" to gain much.
this will remove imperfections,, and texture,, then return it to the sprayed gloss,,

I generally sand with 1500 ( larger imperfections) to 2000 or 2500 WET , generally within a window of 24 to 72 hours from spraying the clear,, assuming normal temp and humidity.

to achieve the "hand rubbed look" , the surface really wants to be flat with no orange peal,, hence the sanding to remove texture,,

as was mentioned, Phil did a nice writeup in Model aviation some time back,, pending that, I plan on covering this in an upcoming installment of my column in Stunt news,, ( once back on my feet)

Bill,
that is my preference,, but the Avenger I initially did not sand or polish it for a year,, I was quite easily able to sand and polish it by hand,, now, that said, it had only minor imperfections,, a very small color seperation ridge and a few small areas of overlap texture.. so it did not take much.

So you see, it is possible, but as I said, I would MUCH rather do any sanding and polishing start to finish in that 48 hour window. its SO SO much easier,, after three days or so, it gets much more intensive to sand out the scratches from the sandpaper,,

Hope that helps? if not ask again,,