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Building Tips and technical articles. => Building techniques => Topic started by: FLOYD CARTER on March 01, 2013, 01:05:44 PM
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I did a Google search for a battery-powered buffer to polish out my dope finishes. All that is available is big, heavy units that run at 4000 RPM. Good for cars, but I want to tame it down: lower RPM, and light/small for models.
What are you using?
Floyd
P.S. I just did a search on Stunthanger, which provided more good data than Google!
But, still no cordless buffers.
While searching on Stunthanger, I ran across a similar thread about using hand polishing (3M- Maguiers, etc.) and someone reported these conventional compounds do not work on 2-part automotive clear-coats.
I sort of discovered the same thing, when I tried to use 3M polishing compound on my clear-coat. Didn't touch it!
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Floyd,
Not sure if you saw this Thread, but it's an eye opener.
Great looking model also!!
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=30241.0
Should help somewhat.
Charles
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I did a Google search for a battery-powered buffer to polish out my dope finishes. All that is available is big, heavy units that run at 4000 RPM. Good for cars, but I want to tame it down: lower RPM, and light/small for models.
What are you using?
Floyd
P.S. I just did a search on Stunthanger, which provided more good data than Google!
But, still no cordless buffers.
While searching on Stunthanger, I ran across a similar thread about using hand polishing (3M- Maguiers, etc.) and someone reported these conventional compounds do not work on 2-part automotive clear-coats.
I sort of discovered the same thing, when I tried to use 3M polishing compound on my clear-coat. Didn't touch it!
Floyd, I am not aware of ANY cordless buffers on the market,, (perhaps this can be your next marketing coup?)
as to polishing compounds on two part clear,,
a couple questions,,
what grit did you sand the clear with?
how long after you sprayed it did you sand/try to polish it?
What clear was it,, ( well technically what clear IS it I suppose,,)
I have used Maguires, 3M and several other brands on two part clear..
You have seen my Gold Avenger? it was all hand rubbed and its two part Urethane clear.....
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Hi Mark. I'm using Dupont 496-00 urethane (and 483-78 catalyst)
I think I waited several weeks. I didn't do any sanding on the clear. Is that necessary?
It's already pretty smooth. I wonder if further work would help?
On buffers: I have one for cars, but it is too aggressive for models!
Floyd
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P. T. Granderson of the Jive Combat Team tells you what to use as a buffer in his several articles (including one under somebody else's name) on finishing. The most recent was in Model Aviation about 2006 or 2007. Works a treat with 3M Finesse-It II after sanding with 2000 or 2500.
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Hi Mark. I'm using Dupont 496-00 urethane (and 483-78 catalyst)
I think I waited several weeks. I didn't do any sanding on the clear. Is that necessary?
It's already pretty smooth. I wonder if further work would help?
On buffers: I have one for cars, but it is too aggressive for models!
Floyd
Floyd,
I am NOT being a smart ass, what are you trying to "fix" by polishing?
are you trying to get more gloss, remove flaws such as dirt flecks, runs or sags,, or are you trying to remove orange peal texture overall,,
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People seem to like to "polish". I thought maybe the finish might get smoother? It shines, but doesn't have that "hand-rubbed" look.
Well, I ordered a Griot's Garage polisher. I may need some advice on compounds to use, if any.
Floyd
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You wont accomplish much just polishing the surface on a sprayed catalyzed surface,, you really need to do a "cut and polish" to gain much.
this will remove imperfections,, and texture,, then return it to the sprayed gloss,,
I generally sand with 1500 ( larger imperfections) to 2000 or 2500 WET , generally within a window of 24 to 72 hours from spraying the clear,, assuming normal temp and humidity.
to achieve the "hand rubbed look" , the surface really wants to be flat with no orange peal,, hence the sanding to remove texture,,
as was mentioned, Phil did a nice writeup in Model aviation some time back,, pending that, I plan on covering this in an upcoming installment of my column in Stunt news,, ( once back on my feet)
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You wont accomplish much just polishing the surface on a sprayed catalyzed surface,, you really need to do a "cut and polish" to gain much.
this will remove imperfections,, and texture,, then return it to the sprayed gloss,,
I generally sand with 1500 ( larger imperfections) to 2000 or 2500 WET , generally within a window of 24 to 72 hours from spraying the clear,, assuming normal temp and humidity.
to achieve the "hand rubbed look" , the surface really wants to be flat with no orange peal,, hence the sanding to remove texture,,
as was mentioned, Phil did a nice writeup in Model aviation some time back,, pending that, I plan on covering this in an upcoming installment of my column in Stunt news,, ( once back on my feet)
Hi Mark,
What's the timeline after spraying 2 part clear for being able to effective wet sand the finish with 2000/2500? I have hear that you do not want to wait much over 24 hours or it will get too hard to effective sand.
I know you say a "window" of 24-72 hrs., but is that th eeime to get ALL the sanding and rubbing finished?
What say ye?
THANKS!
Bill
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Bill,
that is my preference,, but the Avenger I initially did not sand or polish it for a year,, I was quite easily able to sand and polish it by hand,, now, that said, it had only minor imperfections,, a very small color seperation ridge and a few small areas of overlap texture.. so it did not take much.
So you see, it is possible, but as I said, I would MUCH rather do any sanding and polishing start to finish in that 48 hour window. its SO SO much easier,, after three days or so, it gets much more intensive to sand out the scratches from the sandpaper,,
Hope that helps? if not ask again,,
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Bill,
that is my preference,, but the Avenger I initially did not sand or polish it for a year,, I was quite easily able to sand and polish it by hand,, now, that said, it had only minor imperfections,, a very small color seperation ridge and a few small areas of overlap texture.. so it did not take much.
So you see, it is possible, but as I said, I would MUCH rather do any sanding and polishing start to finish in that 48 hour window. its SO SO much easier,, after three days or so, it gets much more intensive to sand out the scratches from the sandpaper,,
Hope that helps? if not ask again,,
Hi Mark,
I'm sorry I missed this answer! It answers what I needed to know. I will just have to schedule my clear coats so that I can do the sanding/buffing in that window.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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You can use a cordless drill motor & Mguires #85 it will come up kinda shiney.