Somewhere in here over the years, I've described what I've used for years. (Look also into the "lightening holes" topic...)
Use Titebond or Elmer's carpenter's (aliphatic resin) glues. Elmer's in fairly large jugs is lot less expensive, and lasts if well sealed....
Prepare the structure and the sheet to be bonded. Make sure all mating/gluing surfaces fit well. Fit the sheeting to size. Jig the structure solidly to final alignment.
For LE sheeting: Thin the aliphatic with water by about one third . Could be more or less. You want to 'paint' a thin, creamy line onto the joint surfaces - only. Use a cheap brush (for kids' water colors?) or a fine tip glue gun. The glue should mark the joint contacting edges and remain damp or a little wet. Press the 'sheet' you fitted onto the structure. The damp glue you painted on will mark joint lines.
Separate the pieces. Wipe the glue off the structure (some has been absorbed.) Go over the marked lines on the sheeting to make sure the joining areas have glue on all glue lines. If needed, complete broken glue lines. (Kids' brush or syringe tipped glue gun.) Wipe off the glue.
Line up the 'sheeting' and press structure and sheeting into full contact. With a hot 'Monokote' iron or equivalent, press the heat through the outer surface. You'll hear a puff or sizzle when the glue 'kicks.' Seal all glue areas. It can take firm pressure - the structure must be firmly jigged or supported.
Heat speeds most chemical reactions. Aliphatic glues lose the water-weight in a typical slow-cure. This method speeds the reaction, and boils out the water - NOW
NOTE: If the structure got warped, it wasn't adequately supported. The joints are final-cured. It's much better not to let that happen!
Works best on 3/32 thick or thinner light to medium weight balsa (and sheet plywood thin enough to pass heat through to the glue.) Advantages, low cost, strength, speed, and automatically correct interior joints, with NO ugly odors. .And with so little glue left on the model, it is quite light!