Cut, join and sand the sheeting to a good smooth surface before you attach it to the wing. Sanding the surface too heavily when its on the wing causes the ribs to show through!

Cheers

Not that this matters here. But, I built a 696sq." stunt ship almost entirely from 3/32 including fuse sides and molded balsa top & bottom blocks, it weighed 59 oz ready to fly and with modern power and building practices it is plenty strong.

On one of Bobby's videos he shows how he does the joining of sheets of wood.  Trim one side of two sheets of wood.  Put the trimmed edges together.  Put a strip of good ole masking tape down what will be the seam.  Carefully turn the two sheets over to see if there are any gaps.  Now fold them up a little to open the seam.  Put a thin stream of white glue down the seam.  Lay the sheets down flat and wipe off the excess glue.  The tape should be down.    I think in Bobby's video he show wrapping masking tape around a couple of fingers.  Lay the sheets down flat with no gaps.  Take your bottle of CA and start putting a drop or two down the seam.  Rub it in with the taped up fingers.  When done turn it over and remove the tape.  Now trim up one of the edges that was just glued and trim another sheet to add to it.  Same tape and CA as before.  Once you have the sheets glued up to the width you want, block sand both sides.  I think that is why you start with 3/32 inch sheet wood.  Mark which side will be the outside surface.   Now what was the question???

did I miss it. but are asking for a built up or foam wing. built up use 3/32 foam wing 1/16

at the risk of telling people how to ' suck eggs ',

 1/16 = 1.6 mm

 .077 = 2.0 mm

 3/32 = 2.4 mm

 one could have a sheet of ea. with identical weight. were would that leave you ?

Good 'ole balsa cement has been around for decades. It consists of cellulose resins in a solvent base, thick dope with some other ingredients I think
So it sands easy, its gone out of fashion since cyano's came along. It takes a long time to dry properly, but model shops still stock it, well they do here in England anyway It's good for some jobs though. Its all we had years ago.

Cheers

After you sheet it, cover it with carbon veil ( as Bob Hunt does ) and it'll be very strong.

Bob's DVD's are a cheap investment for all the information you get.  I have most of them now
myself and watch them instead of the junk that's on the tube most evenings anymore.

Good topic for me. I have a set of triple cored Geobolt wing halves, shortened down to 53" to allow for three inch swept tips on either end. About 640/50 sq. My plan is to sheet with 1/20th balsa, using finish cure epoxy to secure the sheeting and it will also be applied as the finish substrate. Two coats of the finish cure over .02 carbon mat and finely sanded. Fiber glass over the center joint in two layers also. Two coats of finish and wet elbow grease.

Of special note here is that the sheeting will go over the TE which is already attached to the cores and straight as a die. Thanks Bobby. Weight and proper strength will be an issue. The fuse construction will be molded 3/32 with the same finish techniques, bulk heads and hatches etc. as necessary.

Pete supplied me with a Power 25 and some weight considerations for the front end. Winship crank and Morris horns.