I believe I copied and pasted this from SSW into Notepad, and thus got a .txt file, which isn't on Sparky's approved extension list. So, I opened the .txt and copied it and pasted it into Stunt Hangar...but make sure you give John Miller some applause. Several NW fliers use this method and swear it's the only way to go. It sounds like a winner to me. I'd do a dry run on a piece of scrap. John doesn't discuss using a single hinge pin like PW and Tim, but that should only make it easier. Note where he says to use a door frame...a great idea! Also note that he credits the method to Gordan Delaney.
Steve
jobellcrank
Charter Member
337 posts Nov-07-03, 08:41 PM (CST)
8. "RE: Nylon hinges"
In response to message #2
>Joe Bellcrank (John Miller) has the best system that I have
>heard about. I think it is included in the Legacy epic on
>the Product Reviews Forum. Maybe somebody will give him a
>nudge. (for D.Dirt) Steve
>
>Edit: I didn't find any reference to the final hinge install
>in the Legacy article.
I think that I outlined the method taught to me by Gordy in the now lost for all time Pathfinder review.
But, for those who may be interested, here it is again.
For really free hinges, it's most important to get the alignment correct. Whatever method you use to create the hinge slots, please take the time to center them. Make sure they are all in line and true.
Keith Varley has outlined how to prepare the hinges with Valsoline so the glue cannot wick into the hinge barrels. Take the time to re-read his post.
While most people use epoxies, or some other standard type of glue, the method I'm outlining uses thin Ca. I like the speed and ease I get by using Ca, but before learning tis method, I never trusted Ca for hinges.
You may doubt the stregnth, but prove it to yourself. I've never had one fail since I learned this method.
The key is to use an interface, something to help the Ca wick deeply into the slot, and help grab and hold the hinge. The interface of choice is common ordinary Silkspan. Other tissues may work, but since there's always some scrap pieces laying around the shop.......
Cut a strip of silkspan about the same width as the hinge. Cut the strip into legnths that are about 1/4 to 1/2 inches longer than the hinge tab times 2.
Fold these small strips in half.
We'll install the hinges in the movable surface first. There's a reason for this, I'll explain in a minute why.
Take one of these folded pieces of silkspan, and slip the hinge tab between the two surfaces of silkspan.
Push the silkspan and hinge tab into the slot. Do the same for all the hinges, but don't glue just yet.
Once all the hinges are basically in place, take a minute to align the barrels.
I promised to explain why we start with the movable surface first. It's so we can align the barrels to help prevent binding later.
You did prepare the hinge barrel relief pockets didn't you. I hope so.
Hold the leading edge of the movable surface against a straight solid surface. A door frame works good for this purpose. Put pressure agianst the leading edge. All the barrels should be aligned to the same depth. Those that are too deep should be re-positioned until they all are in line.
Use one of those small CA applicators. The one with the small tube. This allows you to accuratly place the CA exactly where you want it to go. Place the tip agianst the silkspan that is sticking out of the hinge pocket. You want to be right next to the pocket and the Silkspan. Squeese in some CA, not too much, but enough to wick deeply into the pocket. Wait a second, and turn the surface over, and do the other side in the same way.
Wait a few minutes, and you're ready to install the surface onto the fixed surface.
It helps to partially start the silkspan with a spare hinge. Just push them in a fraction of an inch.
Carefully insert the hinge tabs that are mounted in the movable surface. Once all are correctly positioned, and started, put some pressure on the trailing edge of the movable surface and seat all the hinges. Take some care to see that all the hinges are seated to the desired depth, and that the gap is what you want.
Push down slightly on the surface. By down, I mean in the direction of travel, and use your Ca applicator to wick some Ca into the top of the hinge tab. wait a minute, turn the plane over, and push down on the surface again, You'll be bending it opposite from before, and again wick some CA into the hinge slot.
Wait a few minutes. Work the surface a bit to make sure it's free.
Take your exacto knife and cut off the excess Silkspan protruding from the hinges.
You're done. Takes longer to type this than it takes to do it.
Good clean, aligned, and, if you did it right, free moving hinges.
Another great thing about this method is, You can easily install them after you've finished the plane.
Try it on that old plane first if you have any doubts, or at least make up a test piece first to try the method before you commit it to your new world beater.
I'm wondering why everything is spinning around?
John Miller
Topic: ...what method??? (Read 1377 times)
