Thought I would throw this out there.  I have a Buddy who comes over about every weekend to build (and sometimes fly).  He is building a Brodak Warbird modified to a P-47 w/bubble canopy from plans and his drawings.  He flew combat for a long time, but hasn't had a chance to fly much stunt, or build stunt planes.

When it came time to apply the LE sheeting, I wet them with some diluted Windex for him and had him pin them down on the wing until they dried.  Then he white glued everything down.  This was, in essence, "molding" the sheeting.  It goes on so much easier and gives less chance of inducing a warp.  He had never done it that way, so I guess it isn't that widespread an activity. (??)  I have been doing it for a long time.

What ya think??

Bill <><

What's the mix ratio of water and windex?

Thomas

Hi Thomas,

About 1/2 and 1/2.  Some people use straight Windex, but I don't like to get a LOT of ammonia on the balsa.  I have seen ammonia cause balsa to become real brittle after a while.  Plain water will do the trick.

BTW:  When you want to fly, just give me a holler.  Is there a place near you where we can fly?

Bill <><

 This method has always worked well for me.

 Walter

Thanks guys, 

What I am erferring to is "pre molding" LE sheeting on conventional stunters.
I have used about every liquid that you can wet balsa with. 

Many people wet the outside of the balsa and glue it down all in one stroke.  I am referring to wetting both sides of the sheet, and letting it dry BEFORE you glue it down.

Bill <><

So was I, I just did not repeat all of the steps to soak it in hot water in the tub for about 15/20 minutes prior to using an existing wing to form and dry,as this was what we were discussing.

You can utilize this for fully preformed leading edge sheeting or just a top or bottom piece.

You would not want to wet either one or both sides and glue it down immediately as this could lead to the starved horse look as soon as the balsa dried and the adhesive would help to lock that sway back look in place.
Busby

Thanks, Marshall. 

I want the guys who have not had as much experience in building to get ideas from us.  I have LE bucks that I mold turtle decks from and such.  I have also seen construction articles that tell you to wet the LE sheeting and glue it.  I think that procedure leaves more risk for a bad turn out of the parts.  Inducing some stresses, etc..

I found out that Phil had never even thougth of doing this, and I have been doing it for years.  You know what the word "assume" is for.   

Bill <><

Bill <><

Thanks guys, 

What I am erferring to is "pre molding" LE sheeting on conventional stunters.
I have used about every liquid that you can wet balsa with. 

Many people wet the outside of the balsa and glue it down all in one stroke.  I am referring to wetting both sides of the sheet, and letting it dry BEFORE you glue it down.

Bill <><

Thats what I do on built up wings.  It works great

About 1/2 and 1/2.  Some people use straight Windex, but I don't like to get a LOT of ammonia on the balsa.  I have seen ammonia cause balsa to become real brittle after a while.  Plain water will do the trick.

Bill <><

Bill,

This is interesting. I have a few planes in the basement that are old enough to vote and I've never had any sheeting become too brittle.

I just use regular household ammonia and brush it on straight from the bottle. Clears your sinuses and molds your sheeting in one easy step. 

I let it dry before gluing and have never had any problems.

My .02 worth,

Ron

As I understand it, balsa has little or no subrin or lignin; the substances which ammonia affects.  So no ammonia is needed.  The problem is getting the balsa wet.  I did some leading edge molding and used just a wisp of simple green in the water (sprayed on) and had an immediate limp piece of 1/32.  Had no problem with gluing or doping.

Here is something I have thought about which may appeal to some.  Get a piece of more that 3 in inside diameter PVC pipe a little longer than your sheet.  Cap the bottom and put a screw on cap on the top.  Also make a screen device to fit inside.  Make a connection on the cap for a fuel syringe.  Fill near the top with water, put the sheet balsa in, put the screen in to hold the balsa below the water.  Put the cap on, Use the syringe to pull a partial vacuum. Clamp off the syringe line and pull some more vacuum with the syringe.  What you are doing is pulling the air out of the balsa.  Should have limp balsa very shortly.  Rube Goldberg would be proud.