Author Topic: Twister kit question (Read 34950 times)

Tim Chenevert · « **on:** November 11, 2017, 02:57:13 PM »

I am about to start building a Sig Twister from a kit and would like to know if the wood is acceptable in the new kits? Also, are the ribs laser cut? I would also appreciate any advice as this will be my first build in 40+ years! The first one I am going to build stock but do plan on making Templet’s and building a Francher version. Thanks, Tim

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #1 on:** November 11, 2017, 03:31:28 PM »

Hi Tim;
On your first build and model after a long lay off, I wouldn't worry too much about extras and details that you may not be concerned with at this point. There has been volumes written on the Twister and possible modifications so do a search on SIG Twister and be prepared to read for a couple of hours!. It is also an very capable airplane when built stock out of the box. I don't know if current SIG kits are laser cut or not, but I have built Twisters with wood that resembled barn siding and they flew fine. The biggest thing to concentrate on is building it straight and solid. There are a few things that help with longevity and aid in trimming. A fuselage tripler for the nose of some kind can be added to add shape and rigidity to the nose to help the engine run is acceptable. The landing gear plugs into a tube in the fuselage, and I double up on the tube with a piece of 3/16" tube to help it take the extra punishment of landings. An adjustable lead out system helps with trimming but the locations on the plan will make for a good flying model if balanced correctly. Also adjustable tip weight can be achieved by providing a way to attach weights to the outside of the outboard wing tip with a long bolt, and about 1 1/4 ounces will do to start. After getting the flaps and elevators hinged and working properly and final finish applied, seal the hinge gap with tape. You are probably going to beat this airplane up quite a bit while you get your chops back, so consider it expendable and keep work to a minimum and you can build a hot rod Fancher version with the templates that you said you will be making later on. The SIG Skyray .35 is anothe kit of theirs that flies well, is durable and easily repaired and makes a good plane to learn or relearn the basics at a minimum of expense and can also be scratch built and powered with numerous available power plants. Good luck and have fun with it!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #2 on:** November 11, 2017, 04:30:45 PM »

I appreciate the advice! I have heard that you do not need a wing jig, just a flat surface? I have built numerous 1/2A planes but never used a jig. I am just curios about the setup. Tim

Target · « **Reply #3 on:** November 11, 2017, 04:35:49 PM »

The Sig kits don't have laser cut parts, they are die cut old school style to the best of my knowledge.
I'm pretty certain that someone here DOES or WILL laser cut you ribs and the half ribs that you want for the second one, but, you could just make metal templates and stack your own rib set, since the wing is constant chord.
Laser cutting comes more into play with tapered wings, IMO, although you could stack cut those as well.

You don't have to have a wing jig, but since the ribs are not flat bottom, they will either have tabs, or you will need to prop up the lower spar and LE with the TE on the bench.
A flat surface is important, either way.

Have fun. Don't worry about the first build too much. Concentrate on making the bellcrank to leadouts correct, and as Dan said, add the tip box and adjustable leadout guides and fly the stew out of it!

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #4 on:** November 11, 2017, 04:46:28 PM »

I appreciate the advice! Thanks, Tim

Dane Martin · « **Reply #5 on:** November 11, 2017, 05:22:12 PM »

I've been practicing the pattern with my completely box stock, built as per the plan SIG Twister. The only difference I made was the landing gear on mine is a little bulkier. It's awesome as is. I only used the kit wood, and it's actually a light build.
After building it this way, I would say the two things I wish I did different would be adding adjustable lead out's and a weight box. That's it. The plane flys awesome. I flew the pattern today for like 4 hours with it.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #6 on:** November 11, 2017, 05:48:11 PM »

Thanks, Dane. How did you build your wing? I do plan on using the adjustable leads like my Ringmaster (ARF) and also the wingtip weight box. I hope to have my man cave back by next weekend and start my build. Tim

Dane Martin · « **Reply #7 on:** November 11, 2017, 06:12:58 PM »

There might be some wing pics in this old thread

https://stunthanger.com/smf/paint-and-finishing/twister-monokote-job/

I'm wierd, I built the wing on a sheet of glass with weights and clamps. It came out straight as can be. I didn't build over the plans either. I just make balsa measuring sticks with the plans to use to get the rib spacing. They're not left in, just to set the spacing. But it's an easy wing being a straight LE and TE. I'll take any specific pics if you need, but I'm thinking you'll be totally good with this build!

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #8 on:** November 11, 2017, 07:12:46 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on November 11, 2017, 04:30:45 PM

I appreciate the advice! I have heard that you do not need a wing jig, just a flat surface? I have built numerous 1/2A planes but never used a jig. I am just curios about the setup. Tim

The plans show how to build it on a board, and it works out OK that way. The trailing edge is pinned on the plan and the bottom spar is spaced up on square balsa sticks, about 3/8" square I think scrap balsa. You start gluing and pinning ribs to the trailing edge over the plan, then add the top spar, then leading edge. It is explained very well on the plan. It works well as long as you have a good, flat building board. Even a jig isn't worth spit if it is set up correctly. Jigs are nice but not 100% necessary to build a good wing. This is just one of the many small details you watch as you build. If you are a "retread" and have built balsa models before, it will come back to you.
I'm doing like Dane, and building one box stock as per plan just to illustrate live and in person to people how good it is as per plan. I will paint it as Gretz's original, which was orange and trimmed like the current box art. The original was orange, and the current box art photo is the original, it just got "changed" some how over the years. The original is with some one in Iowa, I think. It's like Dane suggests and I mentioned, just add adjustable tip weight, adjustable lead outs, beef up the gear a little bit, and go have fun!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

PS to add: The plan shows a rather sharp leading edge. While not super critical, the plane will turn a bit better and track a bit better with a nice, round and sorta blunt leading edge. It has a 1/2" square balsa leading edge so there is plenty of wood there to sand it to shape.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #9 on:** November 11, 2017, 07:50:20 PM »

Quote from: Dan McEntee on November 11, 2017, 07:12:46 PM

PS to add: The plan shows a rather sharp leading edge. While not super critical, the plane will turn a bit better and track a bit better with a nice, round and sorta blunt leading edge. It has a 1/2" square balsa leading edge so there is plenty of wood there to sand it to shape.

Agreed. I'm actually going to build myself another and use what I've learned building and flying this one to make it more trimming friendly. Basically just changing the things we've said here, and keep practicing!

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #10 on:** November 11, 2017, 08:07:31 PM »

Thanks for the excellent advice and inspiration! I am really looking forward to this build and flying it! Bootlegger has given me a Tower 40 all set up and broken in for this plane so I think it will definitely have the power. Tim

Russell Shaffer · « **Reply #11 on:** November 11, 2017, 08:09:32 PM »

Be sure to follow the advice about beefing up the landing gear mount. That little brass tube through the fuselage will break very easily. I use a piece of 3/8 aluminum round bar with a 1/8 hole drilled through it, but a piece of hardwood drilled for the kit's brass tube would work fine. I just gave away my first kit Twister - still had the original wing but the fuselage had been broken numerous times and replaced. Twisters are great pattern trainers.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #12 on:** November 12, 2017, 07:57:23 AM »

I appreciate all the excellent advice given here! I plan on picking up the kit today from my LHS and start making my templets for future use. Tim

Brett Buck · « **Reply #13 on:** November 12, 2017, 09:55:13 AM »

Quote from: Russell Shaffer on November 11, 2017, 08:09:32 PM

Be sure to follow the advice about beefing up the landing gear mount. That little brass tube through the fuselage will break very easily. I use a piece of 3/8 aluminum round bar with a 1/8 hole drilled through it, but a piece of hardwood drilled for the kit's brass tube would work fine.

You will do even better if you use *two* holes side-by-side, and run the stub ends of the gear all the way through the fuselage, rather than going only halfway across. This will greatly reduce the load on the ends of the gear (cut it to less than half). You have to bend the right and left slightly differently, but it's still only about 1/8" different. Do that, and even the brass tube(s) will work OK. For sure, make sure it goes all the way through both doublers, so you are not counting on the strength of the tube alone.

Having said that, I would highly recommend flat aluminum gear (either from SIG or aftermarket like Randy). Much more durable, less prone to these sorts of mounting issues, and only a few dollars.

Brett

Fredvon4 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 12, 2017, 01:29:09 PM »

To follow up on Brett's advice

RSM sells a set of Long Duralloy Gear - fits Twister and similar models for $14 =/- he also has a shorter set

And Sig Mfg had the aluminum gear for the Ultimate Bi-plane but just looked and they don't have the aluminum gear any more

Most all my profile planes are set up with Aluminum vs wire LG

There are CF options also

Sig Twister built as instructions is just fine

Easy search here on SH as noted above will have you quickly thinking you might want to build two or three at a time

If the plan is just fun fly...not needed the twister is pretty durable
If the Plan is to learn pattern, get better, and advance in capability... multiples of the same plane and engine are a bonus...fly crash, pull out second, glue up crashed, go fly learn more in one trip

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #15 on:** November 12, 2017, 05:09:00 PM »

One thing about building the wing...the die-cut ribs are fine, but they likely will NOT be perfectly symmetrical. So, stack 'em up and look for the ones that aren't quite lined up. Spend a few minutes getting them flipped and flopped to line them up correctly. Take the stack and make a mark in the bottom of the top spar's notch. This will help a lot to help keep the wing straight.

Steve

PS: It's Fancher or Fancherized, with one "r".

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #16 on:** November 12, 2017, 06:21:19 PM »

Quote from: Brett Buck on November 12, 2017, 09:55:13 AM

You will do even better if you use *two* holes side-by-side, and run the stub ends of the gear all the way through the fuselage, rather than going only halfway across. This will greatly reduce the load on the ends of the gear (cut it to less than half). You have to bend the right and left slightly differently, but it's still only about 1/8" different. Do that, and even the brass tube(s) will work OK. For sure, make sure it goes all the way through both doublers, so you are not counting on the strength of the tube alone.

This is my preferred method for mounting profile landing gear. If the gear is otherwise flat (like a Twister gear) then when you're done the gear will have identical bends moving the mounting ends 1/16" off the plane. When they're mounted on the plane, one will be 1/16" forward, and the other 1/16" back.

The Twister gear is probably already bent to just go half-way through the fuselage, though -- so you'll need to decide on whether you want to go with the bent wire as is and a stronger tube, or make new gear.

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #17 on:** November 12, 2017, 08:24:59 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on November 12, 2017, 06:21:19 PM

This is my preferred method for mounting profile landing gear. If the gear is otherwise flat (like a Twister gear) then when you're done the gear will have identical bends moving the mounting ends 1/16" off the plane. When they're mounted on the plane, one will be 1/16" forward, and the other 1/16" back.

The Twister gear is probably already bent to just go half-way through the fuselage, though -- so you'll need to decide on whether you want to go with the bent wire as is and a stronger tube, or make new gear.

Like I mentioned in my first response;
I just use what comes with the kit ( a length of 5/32" brass tube) and cut an equal length of 3/16" brass tube to slide over it. That doubles the wall thickness for almost nothing if you have scraps of brass tube laying around. Then all that needs to be done is drill a 3/16" hole in the fuselage. VIOLA! That's it. Since this will probably be a disposable airplane, keep work and expense to a minimum.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

jim ballard · « **Reply #18 on:** November 16, 2017, 08:04:45 PM »

This is a timely thread for me. I'm a re-tread as well (35 years) and just received my Twister via FedEx and will heed the excellent advice given in this thread. Adjustable lead outs, and weight box are on the list. I may even do an adjustable rudder as well. Thanks for all the advice to the OP, I'm just riding the wave.....

Target · « **Reply #19 on:** November 16, 2017, 08:54:33 PM »

Make sure to do a little research on proper installation of the lead outs to the bellcrank. That's important. Take a little extra care there.
I'm a fan of reversing the bellcrank also so that the pushrod going to the flaps is in front of the pivot, closer to the inner wing tip, not outer, but that's a minor detail.
Enjoy!

Brett Buck · « **Reply #20 on:** November 17, 2017, 10:43:37 PM »

Quote from: jim ballard on November 16, 2017, 08:04:45 PM

This is a timely thread for me. I'm a re-tread as well (35 years) and just received my Twister via FedEx and will heed the excellent advice given in this thread. Adjustable lead outs, and weight box are on the list. I may even do an adjustable rudder as well. Thanks for all the advice to the OP, I'm just riding the wave.....

The adjustable rudder is very important, and you need to align it very carefully, as carefully as anything else.

Brett

jim ballard · « **Reply #21 on:** November 17, 2017, 11:10:04 PM »

Brett, thank you for the advice. Will do.....

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #22 on:** November 18, 2017, 04:34:09 PM »

I do appreciate all the advice here. Jim, I think it is great that we are building Twisters at the same time. With all the knowledge here, we should have a couple nice planes! I also have a friend, Bootlegger, that will be helping me and will pass on all advice I get. I bought the kit today and I am in the process of making templates so I can repair and make a Fancher Twister to follow. I hope to start the build over Thanksgiving....and do some flying too! Tim

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #23 on:** November 18, 2017, 04:51:17 PM »

Another question;
What is the Benefit of adding half ribs? I have also been told to add thin balsa bracing between the spars to held with wing flex. Tim

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #24 on:** November 18, 2017, 05:40:39 PM »

Quote from: Dan McEntee on November 12, 2017, 08:24:59 PM

I just use what comes with the kit ( a length of 5/32" brass tube) and cut an equal length of 3/16" brass tube to slide over it. That doubles the wall thickness for almost nothing if you have scraps of brass tube laying around. Then all that needs to be done is drill a 3/16" hole in the fuselage. VIOLA! That's it. Since this will probably be a disposable airplane, keep work and expense to a minimum.

That should do.

My "disposable" Twister carried me from the middle of Intermediate to just a bit above the bottom of Expert, in four-five years of flying and probably over 500 flights. It's a good thing I didn't build it as a throw-away, even though I thought it'd only last six months!

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #25 on:** November 18, 2017, 05:43:42 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on November 18, 2017, 04:51:17 PM

Another question;
What is the Benefit of adding half ribs? I have also been told to add thin balsa bracing between the spars to held with wing flex. Tim

The half ribs help to hold the airfoil shape. The reason for half ribs is because the curvature of the airfoil is more severe in front.

The thin (1/16 works well) balsa with the grain going vertically between the spars keeps the spars from being able to squeeze together, which keeps the wing from even consider buckling. It also helps to form a "D" tube along with the covering in front -- although without LE sheeting, that effect is probably minimal.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #26 on:** November 18, 2017, 06:22:53 PM »

It looks like those two options are good then. Do they add a lot of weight? I am trying to build this kit as light as possible. Tim

jim ballard · « **Reply #27 on:** November 18, 2017, 09:18:22 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on November 18, 2017, 04:34:09 PM

I do appreciate all the advice here. Jim, I think it is great that we are building Twisters at the same time. With all the knowledge here, we should have a couple nice planes! I also have a friend, Bootlegger, that will be helping me and will pass on all advice I get. I bought the kit today and I am in the process of making templates so I can repair and make a Fancher Twister to follow. I hope to start the build over Thanksgiving....and do some flying too! Tim

Hi Tim, glad you started the thread when you did because I'm getting the same benefit with no intention of hijacking your thread. I'm so impressed with the knowledge and expertise of the folks on this forum, and the willingness to help and share that knowledge. Good luck with your build and be sure to share pics along the way, I will do the same.

Brett Buck · « **Reply #28 on:** November 18, 2017, 10:06:50 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on November 18, 2017, 06:22:53 PM

It looks like those two options are good then. Do they add a lot of weight? I am trying to build this kit as light as possible. Tim

I wouldn't worry about things like this. Where you get in trouble with weight is in the finish, hardware, and the excess use of plywood. A few small bits of ribs will not make a consequential difference in the weight, but will slightly improve the aerodynamics (and appearance). Don't make them with the grain vertical, put it fore/aft as per normal. Use light-medium balsa (6-7 lb) B or C grain.

It's much more important to make sure you radius the leading edge as blunt as you can make it, basically, carve/sand a smooth arc from the ribs on the top to the ribs at the bottom, and symmetrical. A razor plane will speed this up dramatically.

Brett

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #29 on:** November 18, 2017, 11:03:50 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on November 18, 2017, 06:22:53 PM

It looks like those two options are good then. Do they add a lot of weight? I am trying to build this kit as light as possible. Tim

As it has been mentioned, no need to get hung up on weight just yet at this stage. That is one reason I usually advise keeping modifications to a minimum until you get some time in the air and get some experience to learn what the modifications are for and that in itself helps keep weight in check. It's more important to built a straight, accurate air frame. The half ribs and shear webs (which I think aren't necessary but if installed only need to go out about half way on each wing) won't add but a few grams of weight. The Twister air foil is capable of carrying a fair amount of extra weight. I have seen Twisters bastardized up to 50 ounces or more and still fly a pattern. One legendary example is a dimensionally stock Twister that was built entirely out of pine but the late ( and I think great) Jason Pearson and his Dad. I think it weighed around 55 to 60 ounces and was powered with a .35 or .40 FP the last time I saw it fly, and Jason flew that in contests! And did well with it! They did it just to prove a point I think. You can search on the forums here for more information on it. Something like that takes some careful flying when it gets too heavy, and that is something we all have done and you will to eventually in the process of learning.. You just can't build a light airplane at first, you have to learn HOW to build a light airplane and what it takes to do that. As Brett mentioned, there are several elements involved in building up weight in a model and no one thing will make an airplane lighter. It starts at the beginning and has to be monitored through the construction right up to the final finish, and learning what to do and watch for takes time and experience, but you will get there. Jason Pearson was quite a guy and great modeler who was tragically killed in an ultralight airplane accident. We are holding our now annual Turkey Shoot contest tomorrow that he instigated here, and I believe his wife is supposed to come up and attend tomorrow. We miss him a lot.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #30 on:** November 19, 2017, 01:48:20 PM »

Quote from: Dan McEntee on November 18, 2017, 11:03:50 PM

As it has been mentioned, no need to get hung up on weight just yet at this stage. ... The Twister air foil is capable of carrying a fair amount of extra weight. I have seen Twisters bastardized up to 50 ounces or more and still fly a pattern.

My Fancherized Twister weighs 54 ounces dry, and has done better than 500 points and better than last place in Expert in local contests. So -- yes. Build the kit with the wood that's in it, and don't lard on the paint, and you should be fine.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #31 on:** November 19, 2017, 01:49:34 PM »

Okay guys my man cave is back in business! My reloading bench has been modified with a covering of ceiling tile and ready to build the Twister on. Today I made a set of templets out of 1/4” plywood including a Templet for the 1/2 wing rib. I should start this week on building the Twister! Jim, where are you at with your build? Tim

jim ballard · « **Reply #32 on:** November 19, 2017, 02:30:49 PM »

Hi Tim, got the wing framed up today and off the board. Adjustable lead-out, weight box, bellcrank mount, and center sheeting still left to do. I think I'm going to do shear webs as well about halfway to each wingtip as well. I cut the canopy down about 1/2" and did a little reshaping to the vertical stab and rudder.

jim ballard · « **Reply #33 on:** November 19, 2017, 02:38:26 PM »

Here is the detail on minor mods on the fuse.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #34 on:** November 19, 2017, 06:21:27 PM »

Nice job on the wing Jim! I see your mark for the weight box and that is where I was thinking about putting mine.I am also going to install the shear webs and also the half ribs. What are you going to use for the adjustable line guide? I see Brodak has like 4 different ones. Also Bootlegger suggested to use aluminum landing gear. Tim

Dane Martin · « **Reply #35 on:** November 19, 2017, 06:55:34 PM »

This is my fave from RSM. It's my fave for simplicity.
https://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm
The one that says LOG-01

If you like ordering from Brodak (which is also great) then my suggestion would be this one
http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/leadout-line-guide-kits/dual-2-line-adjustable-leadout.html

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #36 on:** November 19, 2017, 07:36:34 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on November 19, 2017, 06:21:27 PM

Nice job on the wing Jim! I see your mark for the weight box and that is where I was thinking about putting mine.I am also going to install the shear webs and also the half ribs. What are you going to use for the adjustable line guide? I see Brodak has like 4 different ones. Also Bootlegger suggested to use aluminum landing gear. Tim

On a Twister, you don't need to build an actual box. There is no leading edge sheeting in which to blend in any sort of cover. The outside of the wing tips are lite ply, I believe, and that's pretty tough. I glued a small piece of 1/16" ply in the center of the outboard tip rib just ahead of the spars, and installed a 4-40 blind nut on the plywood and glued it thoroughly. For tip weight, I use pinewood derby weights that are sort of flat squares and drill a hole in the middle for the 4-40 bolt. I did one piece at 1 ounce for a starting place and will add or subtract as trimming proceeds. I put a piece of paper chip board the same size as the weights underneath it before tightening down to aid in getting a good grip, and the paper will crush a bit and between that and a good lock washer and flat washer, the bolt doesn't vibrate loose. The amount of tip weight will vary depending on several factors, and as trimming progresses, it's nice to be able to easily add or subtract weight. You can guess at a basic amount or use what it says on the plan (1 ounce) and just glue it in and it will be pretty close for a stock built model. Mike Gretz came to that amount through practice and experience. But when you start making additions to the construction of the air frame and different amounts of finish and types of finish, this can change what you need for tip weight to make the model track correctly, which is what the tip weight is for. As you get more flight time and experience you will be able to see and feel the difference and the need for more or less weight. There has been tons of stuff on tip weight posted to the forums on tip weight and there is posted some where the trimming article that Paul Walker had in his construction article for his impact stunt model that explains a whole lot. I think it's pinned on the site here some where, but you can cross that bridge when you get to it.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

Charles Meeks · « **Reply #37 on:** November 19, 2017, 08:07:51 PM »

Tim,
I was nice to meet you at Hobby Towne on Saturday.
I am working to finish my Twister and trying to fly the whole beginner pattern.
Our local club (Baton Rouge Bi-Liners) are some of the best folks I have met and I am
glad I have them to help with advise for building and flying.
Best Regards,
Charles Meeks

jim ballard · « **Reply #38 on:** November 19, 2017, 08:20:40 PM »

Quote from: Dane Martin on November 19, 2017, 06:55:34 PM

This is my fave from RSM. It's my fave for simplicity.
https://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm
The one that says LOG-01

If you like ordering from Brodak (which is also great) then my suggestion would be this one
http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/leadout-line-guide-kits/dual-2-line-adjustable-leadout.html

Dane, that's the one I'm using from Brodak.

jim ballard · « **Reply #39 on:** November 19, 2017, 08:33:07 PM »

Tim, I am going to use the aluminum gear as well. What are you going to use for power? I have 3 pristine fox 35's so I'm going to use one for this project.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #40 on:** November 20, 2017, 02:20:12 AM »

Charles, I enjoyed meeting you too at Hobby Towne. The Bi-Liners is an exceptional group of people who love flying and very willing to help a fellow out with this hobby. I didn’t realize you were finishing a Twister! Did you go completely stock or did you modify yours some? I do remember you mentioned the Fancher mods.

Jim, thanks to a fellow Bi-Liner, Bootlegger (Gil), I have a very nice Tower 40 engine for a power plant. Gil set up the engine and told me it would go nicely in a Twister and that is what started me with this project. He has also offered any help and advice that I need. I will try to place an order for the landing gear at Brodak today. Did the Brodak adjustable wire guide install easily? Happy landings, Tim

jim ballard · « **Reply #41 on:** November 21, 2017, 06:06:35 AM »

Tim, the adjustable lead out should be easy to install. I cut a slot in the inboard end rib to allow the guide to slide fore and aft without binding. The inboard plywood tip will also need to be slotted as well. Hoping to get the wing finished up today so I can get started on the fuselage. Have a happy Thanksgiving!

jim ballard · « **Reply #42 on:** November 21, 2017, 11:33:53 AM »

Tim. a few pics of how I installed the adjustable lead-out guide, super easy!

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #43 on:** November 21, 2017, 05:47:45 PM »

Nice work Jim! Where did you get the adjustable leads? I should start on mine Thanksgiving Day. I have another question, how did you make the splice between the wing spars? Happy Thanksgiving, Tim

big ron · « **Reply #44 on:** November 21, 2017, 06:13:25 PM »

Tim some of us are flying in Zachary at about 10:00 on Friday if you or anyone else can make it. I can bring my Twister for you to look at it ain’t much but flies good

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #45 on:** November 21, 2017, 06:26:26 PM »

Well thanks a lot Big Ron! I am busy until around 11 but will definitely head that way after. Looks like a nice Friday afternoon! Tim

jim ballard · « **Reply #46 on:** November 21, 2017, 08:13:38 PM »

Quote from: Tim Chenevert on November 21, 2017, 05:47:45 PM

Nice work Jim! Where did you get the adjustable leads? I should start on mine Thanksgiving Day. I have another question, how did you make the splice between the wing spars? Happy Thanksgiving, Tim

Hi Tim,

The adjustable lead-out guide is from Brodak. Dane posted a link in a previous post, that is the one. I joined the spars, leading edge, and trailing edge sheeting as per the plans. The leading edge stock, and spars are a butt joint. The trailing edge sheeting is joined on a 45 degree angle.

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #47 on:** November 23, 2017, 05:29:43 AM »

I ordered the adjustable lead outs and a weight box from Brodak’s yesterday. Thanks Jim for the heads up on the correct parts. The spar is down and all the ribs are glued in place except the two outside ribs. I tried to post a pic last night but was unable to.
Happy Thanksgiving to all, Tim

jim ballard · « **Reply #48 on:** November 23, 2017, 03:52:10 PM »

Happy Thanksgiving to all the members of the forum! Tim, get those pics working man.....we gotta have pics!

Tim Chenevert · « **Reply #49 on:** November 23, 2017, 05:30:30 PM »

I need to make them smaller to post and trying to figure out how to. I forgot to ask my daughters when everyone was here today. Tim