Just purchased a magican from Brodak and was wondering if there is any tips in building the Brodak version. I planned on using and old Super Tigre 35 from back in the the day when my dad flew, it has very low milage on a new piston and sleeve from years ago.  I have been reading the articles from Pampa on (How to build a better profile) and was planing on extending the engine mounts back to the leading edge and recessing the fuel tank, also purchased  a uniflow tank because mufflers were not available for this engine. I am not sure how thick the wood will be  for the stabilizer but I have read here that some people used 3/16 thick wood  on the stabilizer and rudder. Any building tips are appreciated to help me become a better builder. Thanks

Thanks Larry , when you say move the stabilizer back 1 to 2 inches does this mean to just move the stabilizer or does it mean to make the profile body longer? Also when doing a search on this site what does increase the movement refer to ?

Do you still balance the plane according to plans when you change this location? Also what kind of engine are you using? I know most people are going to tell me to use a 25 motor instead of the old 35. I am not disputing the run characteristic of the modern 25 ( I have 2 OS25's and they both run great thanks to the advise from fellow modelers on this site) but I would like to use the Super Tigre because it is just sitting around gathering dust. I am thinking on making this build kind of an old school plane and motor but with a few mods to help run and flight performance.
  This was also the very first model that came home in one piece back when I first started to fly 25 years ago, so I am trying to take a trip down memory lane.

If you are building the Brodak Original Magician which used to be the Walter Umland kit if I remember right.   Move the .35 back a tad if you use a muffler.   No muffler it will work where shown on the plans.   I still have my Brodak Original Magician that is powered by a Brodak .25.   One of the best profile planes I have.  Now if I can only get it back from my grandson.

HI Scott,

The Magician can do the whole pattern, no problem.  Really search some of the "Trimming" posts and ask questions about your specific problems when flying.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Received my kit today and was wanting to know if I should put in an adjustable weight box and should I try to put in adjustable lead out guides? The plans show the lead out guide as an option but I'm not real sure how to alter the wing tip to make the small channel for the wires to move in. If I do the adjustable lead out guide how much fore and aft movement should be needed at the wing tip, and if you use an adjustable guide is the center of the nylon sliders starting point mid way between the original spacing for the fixed line guides? If a weight box is used do you put it inside the last rib and leave out the last half rib?